Valve systems

JB · Post by JB » Thu May 20, 2004 8:09 pm

schlepporello wrote:So then if it has four valves, you need four quarters, hence a 4/4 size tuba. Right?

Cool.

This is such an easy and precise way to tell 4/4, 5/4, and 6/4 horns apart instantly -- and will probably create an industry-wide consistency. (Cough... So, you can now have a 6/4 B&S F tuba by having six valves...

)

So, does this mean that all three-valvers are automatically three-quarter tubas?

(And what do the euphers use? Dimes?)

corbasse · Post by **corbasse** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 9:41 am

As an added bonus, the surface on the coins provides some grip, handy for people with sweaty hands. It also can serve as a reminder for players whose fingers keep flying through the air instead of staying on the levers. (Very common problem with french horn players because of the playing position)

iiipopes · Post by **iiipopes** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 12:00 am

I know it's anachronistic, but I'll stay with the mop buttons on my Besson comp and Conn/Cavalier souzy. My pinky finger is at least 3 cm shorter than my ring finger, so I gave up 4 & 5 valve tubas, including rotaries, long ago.

Tubaryan12 · Post by **Tubaryan12** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 8:25 am

My pinky finger is at least 3 cm shorter than my ring finger...

So is mine. Then I added a quater and a penny to the end of the 4th paddle and it works great (of course, until i decide to do something that looks better and pay for it).

Leland · Post by **Leland** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 11:47 am

schlepporello wrote:They may be meant to be the next best thing, but the third and fourth valves are still turned the wrong way. For the amount of money these cost, you would think they'd position them to rotate in the same direction as the airflow, not against it.

I understand the intent of having them all turn the same way, but then again, don't the 1-2 valves on this horn close against the flow of air?

Danged if they turn one way, and danged if they turn the other, I would think.

Kevin Hendrick · Post by **Kevin Hendrick** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 11:32 pm

Leland wrote:I understand the intent of having them all turn the same way, but then again, don't the 1-2 valves on this horn close against the flow of air?

Danged if they turn one way, and danged if they turn the other, I would think.

True. The only way around that (that I can see) is to make the valve index through a 90Â° arc (always in the same direction) every time its key is either pressed or released, rather than oscillating through the same 90Â° arc (in opposite directions). How to implement that is another question entirely (the valves would have to be symmetrical, for one thing, since the "in" side of the valve on one keypress would be the "out" side on the next) ... some sort of "escapement" mechanism (as in mechanical clocks and watches), perhaps?

Leland · Post by **Leland** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:04 am

That just sounds like more trouble than it's worth, though.

Kevin Hendrick · Post by **Kevin Hendrick** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:06 am

It does, doesn't it?

Leland · Post by **Leland** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:20 am

So, anyway... Rotax valves (which I believe are the point of the starting post) are better than regular rotary valves, right?

TUBAMUSICIAN87 · Post by **TUBAMUSICIAN87** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:31 pm

schlepporello wrote:Naw, like I mentioned before, Dimes are for French Horns.

so then tubas should use half dollors?