Hirsbrunner models

[Manituba]

Hi,

I'm in the market for a new tuba. Can anyone give me a subjective comparison of how the HB-2, HB-20, and HB-21 play relative to each other?

I'm looking for a new piston 4+1 CC, either a 4/4 or 5/4 and I am also considering the PT-6P (which I really like).

Any opinions or advice are welcome.

Thanks,
Chris

[Z-Tuba Dude]

Well, the HB-2 is a rotary horn......

[Tubaguy56]

Actually I've been having similar problems in the search for a good 5/4 or 6/4 CC tuba. I've tried the PT6P, I wouldn't buy it, I mean, I've tried the PT6P and the PT6, and even there you can tell the difference in the sound. The PT6 just seems to have better stability, control, and tone.

[Manituba]

Well, the HB-2 is a rotary horn......

According to the Custom Music website it is availbale as a piston horn: I should have specified HB-2P.

I guess I'm really asking if these horns all play the same? They are all 4/4 Hirsbrunners and the specs are very similar. What's the playing difference?

Thanks,
Chris

[J.Harris]

I would also suggest one other horn to try. The PT606 - great horn. I would classify it as being about half way between 4/4 and 5/4. I guess that would be a 9/8 ? Anyway- it's very responsive with a colorful, tasty sound. The PT606 is also one of the most ergonomically friendly horns I've ever played. Good luck. P.S. I think the HB's are priced about 2X of what they're worth.

[Z-Tuba Dude]

p.s. one thing to be wary of with used HB-2's is that they originally had nylon interiors to the rotors that would expand and stick in hot weather. I think they changed to metal in the mid-80's........

I was told by Peter H. that my 1977 HB-2 has the metal rotors, not nylon. I am not sure exactly when they made the switch, though.

[dave]

The HB-1 is basically the same tuba without a 5th valve.

The European model number for both horns (HB1 and 2) is 390. They are the same horn, in fact Peter H. identifies the 4-valve model as an HB-2P.

-Dave

[KenS]

I have owned the HB2, HB21 and the HB2P (in that order).

The 2 was a metal valved rotary purchased new in 1975 ($3300 including hard case and shipping). It was a very nice horn. Had a great rich sound and was free-blowing, easy to play and played in tune.

After selling that and being without a horn for many years, I purchased a relatively new HB21. The Eb (1st ledger line) was very flat and impossible to play in tune. I also thought it was not very free-blowing and was a lot of work to play. The overall tone was rich and had a nice character.

Because of the resistance, I decided to find a different horn. Found a used 2P that has suited me much better. Easier to play, very rich sound and the Eb plays in tune. (the rest of the intonation problems are just me....) This one is the horn I will keep (sorry Mitch!)

I have found the HB's in general are susceptable to intonation problems due to the lack of wind that I put into the horn. When I blow better the horn's intonation is better. Tonally I cannot tell the difference but I can in intonation.

Good luck and I hope the right horn finds you.

Ken S.

[T. J. Ricer]

You might take a look at the Rudy Meinl piston CC, I've heard it refered to as "the poor man's HB-21." Similar size and shape, good intonation and really colorful sound. It's listed as a 3/4, but Rudy's all run large (their 5/4 is bigger than most 6/4 horns and I'm not sure I could even lift their 6/4). I'm doing everything on my big horn these days, but if I had the money for another CC, that would probably be it.

--T. J.

[prototypedenNIS]

Hey Chris, I'll take your old tuba.

Not the Yamaha... the big Silver one...