Oil for rotary valve

[GJDavis1]

Hey all,

Quick question.

My Thor is coming in tomorrow, and I ordered some Hetman's Ball Joint oil, and also the Bearing and Linkage Oil (For the 5th valve). Should these two suffice? I was never really taught how to oil rotary valves besides putting the oil in the valve slides, which I always felt like there was a better way to do. So could you guys help me out with some short instructions on how to get the most out of those oils and my rotary valve, and what places to apply which oils. Thanks!

(This place is awesome, by the way, and you guys are great)

[Douglas]

That's pretty much all you do. Pour oil down the slide, open the cap put some oil on the inside, and put a little oil on the moving parts so it dosen't make noise.

[GJDavis1]

which of the two oils do i put where?

[David Schwartz]

GJ,

Here is a link to a good Osmun Music, Inc. article on rotary valve maintenance.

Apply a drop of ball joint oil to each ball joint.

Use the bearing oil on the shafts, both sides of the valve.

You will also need a lighter oil, rotor oil or a piston oil, for the rotor; the easiest way is to apply several drops down the valve slides. A technician told me it's OK to use cheap rotor oil; you were wise to buy the Hetman oils for the ball joints, bearings, and linkages.

David

[Rick Denney]

The Hetman rotary bearing oil comes with a useful needle applicator, and it works fine for the ball joints, too. But any light machine oil will do (3in1, etc.). One drop on each ball joint, plus one drop at the front rotor bearing under the stop arm, and one on the rear bearing under the removable rear bearing cover, should last a good long while. You can also squirt valve oil down the leadpipe for the surfaces of the rotor. In practice, such oiling isn't required very often, especially if your mouth is clean before you start. The pistons, on the other hand, should be oiled every session. I like Hetman products, too, and for tightly fitting valves, Hetman Light Piston is the stuff I use. But, again, any competent valve oil, from ultra-pure lamp oil to the boutique stuff, will do. Keeping things clean is more important than the brand of oil.

Rick "profligate spender who uses Hetman products" Denney

[JHardisk]

I own a 5450 "Thor" tuba.

(Once I filed out the rough valve guide slots) the pistons have never stuck, and the rotor never stuck at all.

Funny that this was mentioned! I just had the original nylon valve guides replaced with new Delrin ones on my 6450 "Baer" and my repair person had to file out the slots quite a bit. He said they weren't smoothed out very well at the factory and it was catching the guide. I took the horn to him as the valves were sticking terribly. I know there's a "break in" period on new tubas, but I don't have the time to deal with stuck valves. He slightly lapped the 1st valve, filed out the slots and replaced the guides with something more durable. My valves have never been better!

For me, Blue Juice works fine, but I dislike the smell. I'd imagine now that my valves are actually "fixed" that any oil would work! I've had a recommendation to try the new Berp Bio Oil, made from a vegetable blend. I bought some, and quickly discovered that you need to thoroughly clean out the petroleum based stuff before applying it! When I have a chance to actually sit down and clean my valve casings, I'll give a report on the Bio stuff. It smells great!