Cleaning

[john paul]

Hello everyone, I've got a question. what can i clean my horn with its a 2250 that is yellow brass. I've heard pledge. Thanks in advanced.-JP

[Dan Schultz]

I keep a can of Pledge on the shelf to wipe down brass horns after repair work. Good stuff. Other furniture-type polishes will work, too. But... stay away from any product that contains ammonia... like Windex.

[windshieldbug]

I nearly totally ignore the outsides of my lacquered, raw brass, and silver plated instruments, but (unlike the vast majority of tubas brought to me for repair - and rarely for "cleaning", btw - by schools, amateurs, and professionals) I keep the insides of my instruments very clean.

+10
I figure they put you in the back row for a reason...

[Paul Scott]

I agree with all that's been said but I would also suggest Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. It works nicely on my unlacquered bell, both polishing it and coating it. It also works well on the lacquered parts. Been using it for several years without any bad effects. Lasts a long time, too.

[tofu]

I agree with all that's been said but I would also suggest Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. It works nicely on my unlacquered bell, both polishing it and coating it. It also works well on the lacquered parts. Been using it for several years without any bad effects. Lasts a long time, too.

Lee Stofer recommended the clear coat version of this and I've found it to work really well and it does indeed last a long time.

[Paul Scott]

Yes, I must give credit to Lee who recommended it to me also.

[LJLovegren]

I visited http://www.MeguiarsDirect.com and was not able to determine which of their products is the "clear coat version" of their Cleaner Wax Liquid, Item # MEG A1216.

Can someone point me to the exact item?

[Paul Scott]

I use this:

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4570" target="_blank

Paul

[tofu]

I typically use Meguiars pro line of cleaners/polishes/waxes as I collect/restore classics of the '30's and sports cars so I have to deal with different paints such as enamel lacquer etc. and both metal and fiberglass (Vettes) body material. Requires a lot more steps and effort but does a superb job and worth the effort.

For my modern cars with clear coat finishes AND old tubas I use this one step product of theirs:

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4622

This is in their consumer line and I've seen it fairly cheap at Farm and Fleet if there is one by you.

Paste does a better job than liquid and you don't use it up as fast. Liquid is great for buffers but I've never tried my orbital buffer on a horn and I don't think I would try it even on the lowest settings. People ruin good finishes on cars all the time with buffers as you really need to know what you are doing and most don't.