The "right" 641?

[nobody]

So while cruising the board today, I noticed in one user's signature that they had a Yamaha YBB-641, which they also noted it was the "right" 641. So my question is what exactly is the "right" 641? A school in my area has a 641 which according to the serial number seems to be from one of the early production runs. It's springs are very tight and it seems to take a lot more effort to play than some of the other horns I've used. I also own a 641 and the springs on it feel much lighter and easier to depress than the school's horn. This horn is also much more enjoyable to play. I haven't bothered to check the serial number on it though, so I don't know when it was built.

[toobagrowl]

I've only played one Yamaha 641 BBb and liked it. The low register in particular was great and I liked the sound. It was a newer version model.

Some ppl on here claim the older versions play better. The older versions have the 45 degree leadpipe angle into the rotor section like you see on the B&S Sonora and Alex 163 BBb tubas. The newer YBB-641 versions have the leadpipe going straight down into the rotor section. Others here with more experience with YBB-641 tubas (new and old) can give more insight than I.

As far as the school horn goes - what condition is it in, mechanically and physically? An otherwise "good" tuba can play like crap if there are major issues with it -- (leaks, major dents in slide tubing, bad valve alignment, etc.)

[nobody]

As far as the school horn goes - what condition is it in, mechanically and physically? An otherwise "good" tuba can play like crap if there are major issues with it -- (leaks, major dents in slide tubing, bad valve alignment, etc.)

It's in relatively good shape, save a newly acquired dent on a bottom bow. The valve springs have always seemed to be heavy. I played this horn shortly after this school got this horn and they've had it for over 20 years now.

[Dan Schultz]

I don't understand describing a 641 being 'right' or 'wrong' based on spring pressure. That's something that can be easily changed.

Some may think of 'old' and 'new' style as the differences in the linkages over the years due to manufacturing changes. Some may think the later linkage as being superior. The same reasoning may be applied to Miraphone tubas. However... I regard 'S' links and other forms of early linkages to be just a good as spherical ball ends that are used on later models. Even old 'clanky' linkages can usually be made to work like new again.

[TheGoyWonder]

Played 3 - quite old, S-link valves, but newer leadpipe style. They were the school's, I'd just grab a random one each time and they seemed the same. These were decent.