The physics of the lead tube?

[Charlie C Chowder]

As you know, I have an old 1911 York BBb Sousaphone. It is in great shape for it age, but was missing the goose neck and bits. My local tech at Wally's here in Oregon found a new Holton neck and bit set that fits. I love it but for my inability to play my low notes, below low Bb. It is like trying to blow on a didgeridoo. I have 7 other tubas and several mouth pieces. With any mix, I do not have the problem. But non of the mouth pieces will let me play my low notes on the sousaphone. A second tech says that there is probably a problem with the gooseneck, bits, and lead pipe combo, if there are no leaks. I have found no leaks.

So what gives?

Charlie C. Chowder

Forget the above post. I just tried it out again. Now I can get at lest to the low F. Some mouth pieces let me go down one more whole step to what I think is a low Eb. Anyway it is the next open note below the low Bb. I am use to going down further with my 6/4 York. I will have to work on the sousie. Do not know what was the problem before Christmas. May be the cold freeze had something to do with it, as my brass toys store in the garage.

[imperialbari]

Are the valves worn?

A detail like oiling worn valves, especially with a thicker oil, will change the playability of a given instrument.

The resistance of the instrument may be different from what you are used to. That may block up your embouchure or keep your lips too far apart, if you attempt playing a ’new’ instrument with your normal approach of wind support.

So there may be a variety of reasons for your initial problems with the low notes.

If I want to expand my downwards range on a given instrument, I try glissing down from the lowest working note with the lips alone before adding more valve tubing.I used my Conn 26K Eb sousaphone as a warm-up instrument for my playing on my Besson 981 Eb tuba before I entered the field of BBb basses, because I found the Eb sousaphone more resistant and a bit more demanding to play.than the fatter Eb tuba (despite the bores of the two basses being just about the same).

Klaus

[Art Hovey]

Could it be an obstruction inside the horn? If the main slide is downstream from the valves try pulling it out and poking a steel tape measure through the bugle, starting just after the main slide. You may find a wad of paper or other trash coming out of the bell end after you have poked it loose. Or you could wait for warm weather and do it with a hose.

[imperialbari]

Art Hovey is right about the flushing out of potential obstacles.

If you have a shower system with the shower head mounted on a flexible hose, you can do the flushing already now by unmounting the showerhead and holding the hose against the receiver of the intact tuba.

You may have to tie the main tuning slide to a stay or the like, so that water pressure will not blow out the slide. You may also press the valves to flush the air passages of the valves and flush the valve tubing. Tie up especially the 2nd slide.

Hot water works best, when it comes to flushing out matters of biological origins (the dark green stuff). Make sure ending up with cooler water allowing you to take firm grips, when emptying out the water.

There are commercially available fittings connecting the shower hose and the receiver. One end is threaded, the other end comes in various sizes of conical stubs.

Klaus

[Charlie C Chowder]

I am at a lost as to what the problem might have been. I bought it for a "song" as it did have a large dent in the bend of the bell. I took it directly to the tech to have it fixed and clean. It had sat in an attic for a long time. I just took in a trombone that I got at the same time for a "dance" and the tech recognized the smell of the attic. And the fact the it made her sneeze. It just may be that I am blowing on a lot of different instruments just now. I am also taking flute and sax lessons. But I had not problem with my other tubas that I played at the same time. I played it for and hour today and used a three different mouth pieces. No real problems. My big York has a shallow cup mouth piece that is too big to fit into any other tuba I have seen. This mouth piece is the shallowest on in my collection. I think will look for something similar. At lest it plays well, sound good and is in tune.

But thanks for all of the help.

[iiipopes]

I agree with all the above: there may be wear or a leak somewhere.

If it is worn valves, try applying pure mineral oil to the valves and play notes in succession to see if intonation and response are improved. If so, then you may have to consider what to do about the valves after you clean the mineral oil off them, apply regular valve oil, and see if the intonation issues recur.

Leaks can be anywhere, from slide or bow ferrules to water keys, to where the slide tubes meet the valve block, to even red rot or crack in the leadpipe, slide tubes, or bows. I had an old Besson BBb 3-valve comp that played and sounded great, except for every few months when incrementally each next solder joint down the line would let go and need re-soldering. Once resoldered, it would play great until the next one failed (usually when pulling a slide to set intonation, and the bow would come off in my hand).