Seeking CC tuba advice (returning player, $4500 budget)

[UTSAtuba]

Hello all!

It’s been a while since I’ve sought to horn to play, so I’m looking for a little advice. Though I understand actually playing a horn is the best way to gauge an instrument, I can still use some insight.

I’ve played on several different horns, but my and, most importantly, my wife’s favorite has been the Kalison Daryl Smith model which, at the time, I had a great example of. I sold it a decade ago to help pay for our wedding. We’re still kicking and I even bought/sold a PT-4/Hirsbrunner CC clone (that model that didn’t last around the ‘clone’ circuit) a couple years back to help our move to Brooklyn.

Now, I’m heading to graduate school and would love to get a horn to play. I’m currently eyeing the following on the used market (with a $4500 budget):

* Miraphone 186 clone
* Eastman EBC632
* BMB J845 CC
* Dillon 5450 / Thomann Grand Fifty (MW Thor clone)
* Kalison DS (rare to see on here)
* Mack Brass TU421 (Yamaha 621 CC clone with added 5th valve)
* Wisemann 900 (rare to see on here and in budget)

I’m looking for any opinions on these models.

I’m open to other 5 valve CC options, around the 4/4 to 5/4 size to play in ensemble or solo. I have owned the DS though it’s been years since I’ve played it and my first horn was a 1974 Mirafone 186 so I’m also familiar with its sound abilities (though my spouse isn’t a fan of the sound).

I appreciate all help. Thanks!

[Sousaswag]

Be careful with Kalisons. They were very inconsistent horn to horn. The good ones are really quite good. The bad ones should be melted down! Play before you buy!

I personally don't care for any clone horns over the horn they're cloned from, and you have several clone tubas on your list. For me, I'd rather pay a bit more up front for a tuba that's likely built better from a more reputable factory. Not that they can't be built well, but over the last few years that Chinese horns have becoming more popular, I'm still not impressed with the clanky rotors or not so great solder work on some of them.

If I were you and had this budget, I'd look for a 3/4 Rudy Meinl. I've seen several around the $4500-$5500 price range, and to be frank the 3/4 is one of my favorite tubas, ever.

Also at this price point, you could probably find a real Miraphone 186, although I would totally take the Rudy over a 186.

[Tubatooter]

The 3/4 Rudy is not really a 3/4, only compared, I guess to their larger tubas. The one I played just sucked the air out of my lungs, so it would require big lungs to play and might indeed fit the requirements of the OP in spite of being labeled a 3/4.

[kingrob76]

From your list, I would go with the Eastman horn. The Wisemann horn, if you can find it on budget is very good as well.

[BrassKicksArse]

I upgraded from a 186 copy to the Eastman 632. The 186 copy (Mackbrass, in my case) was a phenomenal horn. It did everything I needed it to do, and intonation was point and shoot. However, I found the Eastman available from a colleague at a great price, and couldn't let the deal pass by. I prefer piston action valves, and since you're used to a DS, you might too. Both horns play great, granted they are on the opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of design. For around 2,000 dollars it really is hard to beat the 186 copy, but the Eastman is a great horn, at any price point. I would happily use a 186 copy again as a primary contrabass. It was a great horn for me. That said, I will not be selling my 632 any time soon.

[barry grrr-ero]

It would be more money, but . . . I would urge to test drive the Eastman 832. Size wise, it's between the 632 and the 6/4 #836 (which I've tried and was completely indifferent to).

[jorzef]

I have a Jimbao 621 copy, which I believe is similar to the Mack Brass TU421 but with four valves not five. Bought it used but like new condition about five years ago for under 1,000USD. Have often thought of upgrading, but have yet to find a horn that plays better - in tune and even across all registers. One complaint is that it is small and needs to be mic'ed when playing in a group.