What to do with a "clunker" Eb sousaphone?
- iiipopes
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I disagree with the characterization of a souzy as "fluffy." With a bowl mouthpiece, an HN White King has as much definition and projection as you can stand. On a 14K, a Conn Helleberg will make it almost tubesque in breadth, but never lose definition.
I respectfully submit any "fluffiness" is a player issue, not an instrument issue.
I respectfully submit any "fluffiness" is a player issue, not an instrument issue.
Last edited by iiipopes on Sat Oct 22, 2016 11:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jupiter JTU1110
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- J.c. Sherman
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King Eb Sousa
I will 1/2 echo a previous comment on King Eb sousas. The earlier monsters are dogs, IMHO. But the later ones which had the complete wrap around the body are awesome. I'm still kicking myself for getting rid of mine. The only "bad" note was the F on the staff, which cleared up completely with 1&3.
I think I heard that Bell recorded all or part of his "Bill Bell and his Tuba" album on one of these sousas.
As for York Ebs... Haven't tried the sousas, but their reagular instruments and monsters are astounding! I would suspect an earlier York sousa should be better than what is being described, but I can only guess at that...
J.c.S.
I think I heard that Bell recorded all or part of his "Bill Bell and his Tuba" album on one of these sousas.
As for York Ebs... Haven't tried the sousas, but their reagular instruments and monsters are astounding! I would suspect an earlier York sousa should be better than what is being described, but I can only guess at that...
J.c.S.
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Jack Denniston
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Thanks for your responses and more info on the sousaphone
Thanks to everyone for your responses to my question about the clunky York Eb sousaphone.
In response to the questions you asked-
Regarding serial number and age- on the bell it says York Artist and on the 2nd valve casing is the number 603256. I think the fellow who sold it to me thought it was around 50 years old, and the finish certainly looks that old, although it is in very good shape otherwise- no major dents, the slides all move, the valves work fine.
Regarding mouthpieces- I had tried a Conn 18 and a ME1, with the results that I described in my original post. I just tried a MF-4, with maybe slightly better results.
In response to the questions you asked-
Regarding serial number and age- on the bell it says York Artist and on the 2nd valve casing is the number 603256. I think the fellow who sold it to me thought it was around 50 years old, and the finish certainly looks that old, although it is in very good shape otherwise- no major dents, the slides all move, the valves work fine.
Regarding mouthpieces- I had tried a Conn 18 and a ME1, with the results that I described in my original post. I just tried a MF-4, with maybe slightly better results.
- Dan Schultz
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Re: Thanks for your responses and more info on the sousaphon
It's a little older than that. Probably somewhere in the range of 1918 and 1921 depending on how one interpolates the serial number lists. Try using a little smaller MP... maybe something on the order of a Bach 24AW, 22, or 25. Make sure you don't have any leaks. If the valves are 'shaky', try using a heavy oil to improve compression.Jack Denniston wrote: Regarding serial number and age- on the bell it says York Artist and on the 2nd valve casing is the number 603256. I think the fellow who sold it to me thought it was around 50 years old....... Regarding mouthpieces- I had tried a Conn 18 and a ME1, with the results that I described in my original post. I just tried a MF-4, with maybe slightly better results.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
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Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
- iiipopes
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Indeed what Dan said. Worn or otherwise leaky valves will cause "fluff." When I need thick valve oil, I take plain ordinary valve oil -- no synthetics, just traditional petroleum based valve oil, like Al Cass, Roche-Thomas (my preference for decades), etc., and to a 1-oz bottle I keep and refill from my larger bottle, I add a couple of drops of pharmaceutical grade mineral oil. It thickens and seals nicely without increasing the viscosity to the point of slowing down the valves, and you can have complete control over the "mix" necessary for your particular situation.
Jupiter JTU1110
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I had a thought..I'm not sure it's a valid one, so please tell me if i'm not. But, Couldn't soft springs mess with your lower range? High range (as we know) uses a more defined, "smaller" airflow.So, If the valve was sitting just a little off, would this not cause the high range to come out good, but the low to be stuffy since it uses a less defined "bigger" airflow? Just a little question of mine.
1969 Mirafone 186 BBb
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Olds fiberglass Sousaphone Project- for sale
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1965 Conn 20J
Olds fiberglass Sousaphone Project- for sale
Epiphone Thunderbird Bass Guitar
Cremona 3/4 upright bass
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Jack Denniston
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getting better
I think this old York Eb sousaphone may be a keeper after all.
As some of you suggested, I tried some heavier valve oil. That seemed to help a bit.
Then I tried a Kelly 25 mouthpiece. That helped a lot. The sound is lot more focused, and this old sousaphone is even starting to sing just a bit in the middle and upper register.
The Bb below the bottom of the staff is still a bit unfocused, but it's better. The false tones are a lot better, and so are the pedals.
I noticed that the 3rd valve tubing is partly flattened out where it goes around the bend at the top end and I'm wondering if it would be worth the effort to have it un-soldered and rounded out.
And I'm going to try a Kelly 24W mouthpiece.
Thanks for your suggestions- I really appreciate it.
Jack
As some of you suggested, I tried some heavier valve oil. That seemed to help a bit.
Then I tried a Kelly 25 mouthpiece. That helped a lot. The sound is lot more focused, and this old sousaphone is even starting to sing just a bit in the middle and upper register.
The Bb below the bottom of the staff is still a bit unfocused, but it's better. The false tones are a lot better, and so are the pedals.
I noticed that the 3rd valve tubing is partly flattened out where it goes around the bend at the top end and I'm wondering if it would be worth the effort to have it un-soldered and rounded out.
And I'm going to try a Kelly 24W mouthpiece.
Thanks for your suggestions- I really appreciate it.
Jack
- Donn
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Re: getting better
Another thing that might bear some looking at is the leadpipe and tuning bits apparatus. If any of the joints leak at all, that would be bad. I don't know if there's any way to spot a leak, but you can take it apart and seal with teflon plumbing tape or something and see if you notice any difference.
- Dan Schultz
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I have to recant a little here....
'Windshieldbug' pointed out to me that York serial numbers do not run up to 600,000... at least not on any published lists. I mis-read your post to read 60,000 and completely overlooked the fact that you menioned that this horn is a York 'Artist' series. Maybe Klaus can shed some light on the York 'Master' and 'Artist' series of horns.
Sorry
'Windshieldbug' pointed out to me that York serial numbers do not run up to 600,000... at least not on any published lists. I mis-read your post to read 60,000 and completely overlooked the fact that you menioned that this horn is a York 'Artist' series. Maybe Klaus can shed some light on the York 'Master' and 'Artist' series of horns.
Sorry
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
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Jeff Miller
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