making tuning slides faster

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Rick F
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Post by Rick F »

Chuck(G) wrote:Rick, I'd hate to think I was giving folks bad advice, so I'd like to see if burnishing with fine steel wool leaves bits of iron embedded in the brass.

How about an experiment? I've got loads of C330 brass sheet to try this on.

Why don't I scuff up a piece with 320 grit emery paper, then burnish one half of it with 000 steel wool, to the point where it's nice and shiny.

Then rinse with some dilute muriatic acid and let dry for a day.

The result should be a more-or-less uniformly green coating, with any steel showing as relatively obvious rust spots.

How does that sound?
I'm watching this thread with much interest!! I've used '000' steel wool a few times on the inside of my slides—although sparingly (twice in 5 yrs). I always rinse thoroughly and then polish them before applying grease. I'd like to see the results of this test. I consider both Chuck and Rick experts here. :)
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Chuck(G)
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Post by Chuck(G) »

Rick F wrote: I consider both Chuck and Rick experts here. :)
Not me--I'm just "insane". Denney's the "resident genius". At any rate, I've got some time to try the experiment this week, unless Rick has a better suggestion.
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Chuck(G)
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Post by Chuck(G) »

the elephant wrote:Just unload a nostril or two on the slide. Or spit on it. Those both work real good.

:lol:
You been talking to some of the folks who bring horns in here for repair, Wade? I just pulled the garland off of a 186 bell and found under it (other than the usual solder):
  • Beeswax
  • Elmer's glue (or white glue of some kind)
  • Silicone caulk
  • Contact cement
I was surprised not to have found bubble gum.

Silly people--don't they know they're supposed to use Pro-Bond to stop rattles? :?
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windshieldbug
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Post by windshieldbug »

Chuck(G) wrote:
  • Beeswax
  • Elmer's glue (or white glue of some kind)
  • Silicone caulk
  • Contact cement
I was surprised not to have found bubble gum.
You didn't look hard enough! I put rosin and Nuskin in there, too! :shock:
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Post by glangfur »

Aside from lapping compounds, the polishing paper we use at the Shires trombone factory is MicroMesh: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=9930

1500 grit is good for taking off a very, very small amount of material, and might undo some of the damage Bob did with the 400 grit sandpaper. 2400 grit is excellent for polishing metal while taking off only the tiniest bit of the surface, if any at all. It will remove built up corrosion without damaging the metal underneath.
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Rick Denney
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Post by Rick Denney »

Chuck(G) wrote:The result should be a more-or-less uniformly green coating, with any steel showing as relatively obvious rust spots.

How does that sound?
It sounds like I'm going to get shown up, heh, heh.

If you and Art haven't had the problem, then my caution is probably unfounded. The problem I had was not with brass, but with aluminum.

Rick "who avoids picking fights on such things with Chuck" Denney
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Post by Rick Denney »

Chuck(G) wrote:
Rick F wrote: I consider both Chuck and Rick experts here. :)
Not me--I'm just "insane". Denney's the "resident genius". At any rate, I've got some time to try the experiment this week, unless Rick has a better suggestion.
Oh, now you are just fattening me up for the kill.

Rick "bending over" Denney
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