I'm watching this thread with much interest!! I've used '000' steel wool a few times on the inside of my slides—although sparingly (twice in 5 yrs). I always rinse thoroughly and then polish them before applying grease. I'd like to see the results of this test. I consider both Chuck and Rick experts here.Chuck(G) wrote:Rick, I'd hate to think I was giving folks bad advice, so I'd like to see if burnishing with fine steel wool leaves bits of iron embedded in the brass.
How about an experiment? I've got loads of C330 brass sheet to try this on.
Why don't I scuff up a piece with 320 grit emery paper, then burnish one half of it with 000 steel wool, to the point where it's nice and shiny.
Then rinse with some dilute muriatic acid and let dry for a day.
The result should be a more-or-less uniformly green coating, with any steel showing as relatively obvious rust spots.
How does that sound?
making tuning slides faster
- Rick F
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Miraphone 5050 - Warburton BJ/RF mpc
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"Always play with a good tone, never louder than lovely, never softer than supported." - author unknown.
YEP-641S (recently sold), DE mpc (102 rim; I-cup; I-9 shank)
Symphonic Band of the Palm Beaches:
"Always play with a good tone, never louder than lovely, never softer than supported." - author unknown.
- Chuck(G)
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- Chuck(G)
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You been talking to some of the folks who bring horns in here for repair, Wade? I just pulled the garland off of a 186 bell and found under it (other than the usual solder):the elephant wrote:Just unload a nostril or two on the slide. Or spit on it. Those both work real good.
- Beeswax
- Elmer's glue (or white glue of some kind)
- Silicone caulk
- Contact cement
Silly people--don't they know they're supposed to use Pro-Bond to stop rattles?
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You didn't look hard enough! I put rosin and Nuskin in there, too!Chuck(G) wrote:I was surprised not to have found bubble gum.
- Beeswax
- Elmer's glue (or white glue of some kind)
- Silicone caulk
- Contact cement
Instead of talking to your plants, if you yelled at them would they still grow, but only to be troubled and insecure?
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glangfur
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Aside from lapping compounds, the polishing paper we use at the Shires trombone factory is MicroMesh: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=9930
1500 grit is good for taking off a very, very small amount of material, and might undo some of the damage Bob did with the 400 grit sandpaper. 2400 grit is excellent for polishing metal while taking off only the tiniest bit of the surface, if any at all. It will remove built up corrosion without damaging the metal underneath.
1500 grit is good for taking off a very, very small amount of material, and might undo some of the damage Bob did with the 400 grit sandpaper. 2400 grit is excellent for polishing metal while taking off only the tiniest bit of the surface, if any at all. It will remove built up corrosion without damaging the metal underneath.
Gabe Langfur
Bass Trombonist
Rhode Island Philharmonic
Vermont Sympony
Lecturer of Bass Trombone, Boston University
Guest Artist/Teacher in Trombone, U of RI
S. E. Shires Co.
gabe@seshires.com" target="_blank" target="_blank
Bass Trombonist
Rhode Island Philharmonic
Vermont Sympony
Lecturer of Bass Trombone, Boston University
Guest Artist/Teacher in Trombone, U of RI
S. E. Shires Co.
gabe@seshires.com" target="_blank" target="_blank
- Rick Denney
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It sounds like I'm going to get shown up, heh, heh.Chuck(G) wrote:The result should be a more-or-less uniformly green coating, with any steel showing as relatively obvious rust spots.
How does that sound?
If you and Art haven't had the problem, then my caution is probably unfounded. The problem I had was not with brass, but with aluminum.
Rick "who avoids picking fights on such things with Chuck" Denney
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Oh, now you are just fattening me up for the kill.Chuck(G) wrote:Not me--I'm just "insane". Denney's the "resident genius". At any rate, I've got some time to try the experiment this week, unless Rick has a better suggestion.Rick F wrote: I consider both Chuck and Rick experts here.
Rick "bending over" Denney