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Some mornings when the breathing is extra tough, I think those who use "Super Glue" etc. on thier horns and don't warn the repairperson should have their lungs ripped out.

Put some of the glue on your finger tip and let it dry. It leaves a nasty coating that lasts a long time. doesn't it? Well here is a little secret for many people. With the heat in standard soft soldering, "Super Glue" comes unglued and gives off vapors to coat the inside of the lungs of unsuspecting repairmen. I wonder how long it's going to last in my lungs or if it indeed breaks down in the body, and how carcinogenic it is? There's nothing "Super" about a glue coating the inside of my lungs.

Someone's reply in a previous post about using super glue to fit coins on rotor tuba paddles reminded me of a few unpleasant experiences. I wonder how many years my life has already been shortened by stuff like that happening to me.

Wow, add THAT to the occupational hazards of working on tubas.... Thanks very much for the warning, Matt.

In light of that warning, Matt, what would you recommend for re-attaching the cork strips to an aluminum tuba mute?

Good ventilation would be a nice idea:

http://www.permabondllc.com/MSDS/101_MSDS_2005.pdf

Matt, I apologize. That was my quote regarding the super glue repairs in the thread about attaching coins to rotary valve paddles to increase grip. Thank you for being so diplomatic as to give an explanation in another thread so the issue could be treated objectively.

I will go now and withdraw my suggestion.

hey...check out the line in the M.S.D.S. about fire and explosion hazard....that happened to me at work....I got a spill on my shirt and it started smoking and burned a hole in the shirt good thing I was wearing an undershirt that day.

As for attaching cork to a mute the above suggestions are the best and quickest: contact cement is the best thing for that job hands down!

Tubaryan "I'll stick to you like glue" 12

Steve Marcus wrote:In light of that warning, Matt, what would you recommend for re-attaching the cork strips to an aluminum tuba mute?

I don't think that the issue would come up with mute corks because you are not likely to do any soldering to them (you can't really "solder" aluminum). Still, you don't want to use super glue because at some point you are going to want to relace the corks when they get worn again, and getting the residual super glue off will be a bear.

As others said, contact cement is the way to go.

Matt Walters wrote:Some mornings when the breathing is extra tough, I think those who use "Super Glue" etc. on thier horns and don't warn the repairperson should have their lungs ripped out.

What do you do when you have been warned, and you know there's cyanoacrylate glue in a crack or something? Would you just take it outdoors and torch it out, or is there some solvent that would do it?

Matt,
I too have been on the receiving end of super glue and can not express the anger I felt eccept to say there was a whole lot of strong language heard in the shop that afternoon. It is a surprize that no technician enjoys.

What do you do when you have been warned, and you know there's cyanoacrylate glue in a crack or something? Would you just take it outdoors and torch it out, or is there some solvent that would do it?

Remove the affending material using acitone or eliminate it through mechanical methods. My experience with It is primarily with flute pad cup spuds where the solder joint has come loose and some child's Dad found this to be a repair he could do in the kitchen. Of corse, it will only hold for so long and so when it falls out next time, Mom brings it into the shop to be corrected. From past experience, I now always inspect the area to be put to the torch in hopes of avoiding this harbinger of pain.

two cents for the kitty.


Daniel C. Oberloh
Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
www.oberloh.com

It's real simple. When I work with things that are supposed to be glued (like mute corks) I'm not taking a torch to it. If I know I have to deal with "Crazy Glue" fumes, I can put on a respirator and make sure I inhale with my head turned away from the source.

It could have been worse--the culprit might have glued old lithium coin cell batteries to his paddles...

Henry wrote:...some solvent based glue such as "Goop" works as well as or better than solder.

Solvent based adhesives need a porous material to work best. Adhesives such as "Goop" would have a hard time drying when used in a metal to metal situation. Epoxies or moisture cure adhesive like MS polymer and urethane based stuff works great on metal to metal and the MS polymer adhesives will usually peel off of the metal when you are done but won't let go unless you pick at it. Of course, we are talking about low load applications like sticking coins on paddles.

Since other companies got a plug I have to put in a shameless plug for the company that keeps my lighs on, my tank full and my computer humming.......Liquid Nails Perfect Glue

clicking the "stick stuff together" tab will give you a guide to what type of adhesive to use in most situations. Of course, none of these are tuba related, but a good guide to common household repairs.

Tubaryan "so that's why my fingers are always sticky" 12

bloke wrote:Poo-poo this if you wish, but more than once I've notice that the combination of superglue and aluminum causes extreme heat. Once (about 15 years ago) I tossed some superglue and aluminum foil mess into one of those green plastic family-size dumpsters. When I came back the next morning, I discovered that the contents of my dumpster had obviously (somehow...) caught fire. The entire dumpster was a melted and cooled puddle of green plastic.

not only will I not Poo-poo this I will confirm that it can happen also with large amounts of epoxy (one of the chemists set the hood on fire by mixing a large amount together in a 1 gallon can to cure it for disposal). They laugh at him to this day for doing it.

bloke wrote:Poo-poo this if you wish, but more than once I've notice that the combination of superglue and aluminum causes extreme heat. Once (about 15 years ago) I tossed some superglue and aluminum foil mess into one of those green plastic family-size dumpsters. When I came back the next morning, I discovered that the contents of my dumpster had obviously (somehow...) caught fire. The entire dumpster was a melted and cooled puddle of green plastic.

Don't think it was the aluminum, Joe. Criminal investigators do their fuming by putting the super glue in an aluminum container--it retards polymerization. And they even heat the stuff.

But if you had a cotton rag in that dumpster, that may have been the culprit. Super glue reacts with cotton very enthusiastically--which is why you shouldn't wear cotton gloves when using it--you'll likely end up burning yourself.

Matt... Where did you get the information that Superglue releases vapors when heated? I usually pay pretty close attention to the MDRS's and I didn't realize Superglue was hazardous in any way after it is cured.

TubaTinker wrote:Matt... Where did you get the information that Superglue releases vapors when heated? I usually pay pretty close attention to the MDRS's and I didn't realize Superglue was hazardous in any way after it is cured.

From the MSDS link posted above (answers both Joe's and your questions):

SPECIAL FIREFIGHTING PROCEDURES Fire fighters should be equipped with self-contained
breathing apparatus to protect against potentially toxic and irritating fumes.
FIRE & EXPLOSION HAZARDS Cloths used to wipe up spills may cause rapid polymerization that could generate sufficient heat to ignite the cloth. Combustion will evolve toxic and irritant vapors.

Google is a strange thing. Here we are, in so many words castigating the use of super glue for instrument repair, and for good reason. In the meantime, as I pull up this thread, on my screen, google has provided several adverts for places that sell or provide industrial super glue services! Typical.