Question for TubeNet Repair Experts

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JB
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Question for TubeNet Repair Experts

Post by JB »

Question for TubeNet Repair Experts

Any suggested remedies for “unstickingâ€
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Chuck(G)
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Post by Chuck(G) »

Try a hot-air-gun or hair dryer, being careful not to heat things too much and scorch the lacquer. Loop a rag through the slide crook and give a few sharp tugs--a continuous pull will not be as affective.
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Dan Schultz
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Post by Dan Schultz »

Follow Chuck's instructions and you should be good to go. Now... after you free the slides, clean them well, lubricate, and work them frequently to avoid having them stick again. DO NOT use vasoline as a slide lubricant. I like a product called 'Superlube'. It's a synthetic grease made by 'Locktite' and is available at industrial bearing supply houses or some auto parts stores. I've never had a slide stick after using 'Superlube'.
Dan Schultz
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http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
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Chuck(G)
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Post by Chuck(G) »

I'm going to add another suggestion to the stuck slide issue.

Usually, a slide gets stuck because moisture (read: slobber0 gets corroded between the inner and outer slides or the lube (whatever you use) dries out and hardens.

So, after you pull the slide, how to clean surfaces so things work nice and smoothly again?

I know that some are going to have a problem with this--but try #0000 steel wool (like the wood finishing people use). It's far too fine to scratch the brass (it's so fine that it'll burn). Wad some around a wooden dowel and use it to clean ithe outer slide, taking care not to let the loose steel wool bits fall into the valves. Clean up using a small magnet on a stick and flush the slides with water. Lube your slides as normal.

Wood finishers use this extremely fine steel wool to buff varnished and painted surfaces, which are far softer than brass. I like this better than using a metal polish because no abrasive is left behind--the magnet gets all of the stray pieces of steel wool.
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Dan Schultz
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Post by Dan Schultz »

schlepporello wrote:That's interesting, Dan!
Have you ever suffered any ill consequences by using Superlube? Such as Plating coming off slide surfaces, discoloration, damage to varnished brass finishes? How does Superlube compare to the stuff that's available from the instrument shops?
Thanks in advance for having patience with a dumb ol' truck driver and his stoopid question. :wink:
It's good stuff. I've never had a problem with it. Lee Stofer pointed it out to me a couple of years ago. I'm sure he still uses it exclusively, too. I buy it in one pound cans. I don't like to vary my lubricants and generally don't try 'every new thing' that comes around... and I don't always use the cheapest stuff. Lubrication is too important to try to do it 'on the cheap'. PS.... I use Hetmans synthetic valve oils, too! I don't mean to turn this into a commercial. I just use what works for me. I certainly don't want slides coming back to me six or eight months from now that are stuck because of the lubricant I used after a cleaning or making a repair.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
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