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How to get the water out of Gronitz F tuba
Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:21 pm
by cambrook
I've borrowed a Gronitz PF125 and I'm slowly getting used to it. I'd really appreciate any tips on the most efficient way to get the water out from all the various places it gathers. My initial thought is that if I buy one I might have to get a few Amado valves fitted
Any advice from PF125 players would be great!
Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:26 pm
by tuba kitchen
in a sitting position: press the thrird valve down, lean forward with tuba while holding valve down, come back to sitting position, release third valve and empty water out of main water key.
Gronitz PF 125
Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 2:11 pm
by Haugan
I have been playing my PF125 for @ 5 or 6 years - Get the water keys, one on the 3rd & one on the 4th valve tubing. You can manipulate the water out of the first slide (it doesn't collect there so quickly) so it continues "onward" to the other water key(s), or just pull the slide and dump it. You'll find yourself in situations where you can't get the water all out in the time you have to do it otherwise, particularly if you're playing a recital or concerto. You may have to "bore out" the Amado key somewhat to acommodate for the volume of water and lack of air pressure you can generate inside a tuba to blow the water out. The "waterkey issue" is my primary design complaint with this horn; it's minor in comparison to design flaws I find in other tubas. Good luck getting one. There are two guys working in the shop (at my last contact, at least) and Dieter (the boss) told me they're up to their neck in CC tuba orders (over 30 even a year ago) since Al won the NYP job. His plan at that time was to suspend making "F"s for a time to meet the demand for the CC's. Perhaps he's taken on extra help by now, but the last time I saw him one of his major complaints was how difficult it is to find craftstmen to work for him in "post-reunification" Germany.
repair, techs, etc.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 4:11 am
by Haugan
For those who may be unaware, instrument repair can be VERY lucrative, challanging and "artistically rewarding" work. Not only can you make a greater salary than most "tuba jobs" if you're good at it, you can choose where you LIVE (just like R.Ns and L.P.N.s), rather than having where you live choose YOU.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:46 pm
by SplatterTone
I have a HVLP unit out in the shop. I got it couple years ago, and it's still in the box. But lately, when slinging the water out of the slides and twirling the tuba around after playing, I've looked at the tuba, thought about the HVLP blower, and thought: Hmmmmm.
Duct tape
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 3:13 am
by Haugan
Harold: Loved your post. Now HERE's a guy whose life is ruled by practicality!!
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:27 pm
by tubatooter1940
Don't forget the famous "King Spin" (twice to the left (port)). I added water keys to the first and third valve slides but that tiny second valve slide fills up necessitating a double spin with the second valve depressed to let the water flow into another slide. Once,in a hurry,I blew my hardest to blow the second valve water into the next pipe. It appeared to work.
There is also the bar napkin repair to a leaky water key pad. If you fold the napkin four times (if memory serves) and rip it off a size larger than the water key pad.you can stop the air leak from the pad and drain the horn by pulling the key down from the pad side,holding the napkin in place.
water...
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 8:23 pm
by Haugan
Doc & Harold: Use of a SMALL caliber firearm is recommended, although a 10 gauge shotgun is guaranteed to solve ALL tuba problems.
