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Looks like you can say: "Honey......SEE, I didn't get screwed after all......."

LV gives great mouthpiece advice, and should you choose to do so, adding on a fourth (& 5th) valve shouldn't be too difficult. Some of these "Jumbo Ebs" have great potential.

BTW, I know of some people who would pay what you paid just for the bell......

These can be great horns! When I switched majors I auditioned for my teacher with one. I think it's very hard to know if it's high or low pitch; the horn has a slightly different wrap than LV's. If it's high pitch and you need to make it low, you basically will have to make your tuning slide look like LV's. Intonation is not so much an issue because 1) you may have to change the the horn due to high/low pitch (although you may be able to dig one up somewhere from a "donor" horn, any key, just need the slide with the right bore, and they made lots of them) 2) you can add valves (not SO easy on a horn with the tuning slide up front and not after the valves), and 3) you have a plethora of mouthpieces to try to see if it goes away by itself.

Just make sure the valves are tight. If not, use HEAVY oil...

tubafreaks7,It looks, at first, like you did well to purchase this horn. It looks good for it's age. The dents they emphasised on the bottom bow don't even look that bad. If the valves don't leak and you get the bugle the right length,I believe you are going to be pleased.
I got a 1940 Efer on E-bay and I am very happy with it. The tuba has good false tones so I feel good about it being a three banger.
Dennis Gray
Listen to my King at www.johnreno.com/

tubatooter-i dig it...

I have one from 1924 that is my absolute favorite tuba. It plays in tune, has a beautiful vocal sound, is powerful, agile, the false tones are so good I think it would sound worse with 4 valves, and the satin silver finish is really pretty. To top it all off it was cheap because few people appreciate these instruments.

-Eric

1916 it is. The serial number web sites agree with a list I got back in the 70's, so I trust them. Conn sold his part of the holding to a group of investors on August 17, 1915 and the company became C G Conn Ltd. A history of the company by Dr. Margaret Downie Banks is at A Brief History of the Conn Company (1874-present)

Here's my 1910 Conn top-action Eb:

Do you think this is a "Giant" or a "Standard"? It's a bit different than both pictures on the Conn Loyalist (note the second valve tuning slide arrangement). The bell is only 16".
Would this be better served by a "Giant" mouthpiece or a "Standard"?
To repeat an often asked refrain, what currently produced mouthpiece is most similair to those hard to find Conns?

I agree with LV about the correct mouthpiece. I use a Bach 25 in my York Monster E flat (most likely built around the same time as your Conn) and have no problem with low range (or any of the other ranges) or intonation. My experience with the old E flats is that they need a small cup shaped mouthpiece (like LV said).

As for only three valves, someday you may want to contact someone that can either add a fourth valve or replace your valve cluster with a four valve cluster. Or you may like it just fine for what you use it for with three valves. If you like the tuba, it sounds like a good deal to me.

Also, I really like the names Conn and York gave some tuba models (Giant and Monster). You just do not see names like this nowdays, too bad.

have fun with your new old tuba,
Mark

LV,

I stand corrected!


best,
Mark

Unfortunately my tuba plays out of tune with a Bach 24aw, especially the really flat 5th partial G and 6th partial Bb. I can't imagine a Bach 25 would be much difference.
Oddly enough it plays perfectly in tune with a Bach 1 1/2 bass trombone mouthpiece