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Naked Naked

Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:25 am
by TubaTodd
HA.....now that I have your attention. :shock:

I've spent a good bit of time cleaning my Conn 56J. I've removed the leadpipe and flushed it. Eeewww....green stuff. My next task is removing the rotar. It looks pretty simple....undo the retaining ring and the valve should come right out. Are there any tips I should know about. I was told that when I put my leadpipe BACK in my tuba (after cleaning it) I should have used plumbers silicone for a better seal. Is that true? Should I do the same for the rotary valve? Any help would be great.

Additionally, I need to replace the rotar bumper and I am having a hard time reaching my hand around the tubes to get the bumper in. My best bet is removing the 5th valve and working on it free of the horn. Is there anything I should look out for? Thanks...

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:50 pm
by TubaTodd
bump please

Re: Naked Naked

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:42 pm
by TubaTodd
bloke wrote:
TubaTodd wrote:I was told that when I put my leadpipe BACK in my tuba (after cleaning it) I should have used plumbers silicone for a better seal. Is that true?


I surely would not.
Should I do the same for the rotary valve? Any help would be great.
Is this part a joke, or are you referring here to some other part of your post other than the part about using silicone?
That part was not a joke. I remember hearing someone say that you should use some sort of plumbers silicone at the joint where the 5th valve connects with the rest of the horn. (Remember this is a Conn 56J we are talking about.) I would never think of using anything like that IN the rotar.

To be honest, this whole silicone thing sounded fishy to me. I do remember Matt Walters mentioning adding something to those joints, however I forgot what he said.

I will try removing the cork plate ONLY. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I'm looking forward to having good bumpers again.