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I would stick with the Al Cass, but I would add a few drops of motor oil to a full bottle (please no flames from you repair guys).
I would also avoid colored and/or scented valve oils. IMHO They seem to create more problems with the additives.
Here's some tips on maintaining pistons:
1. Don't mix valve oils as Djeezus1 said.
2. Wipe off your pistons with a soft, lint free cloth before you apply more oil. Paper towels will leave behind microscopic fibers.
3. Only ingest water when you play and make sure your mouth is more or less clear of food debris before you play (ie corn chips, peanuts, oreos etc...).

I had a similar problem on my 2341 when I first got it. I tried using Al Cass, but what has really worked is Hetmen's Light Piston Oil.

I vote for cleaning and Hetmans. Hetmans made a world of difference for me on my old King sousa.

When my horns act up like that I take them outside, hook the spray nozzle up on my water hose and let her rip down the leadpipe and flush the horn out while pushing down the valves. Then I pull all the valves and slides and flush it again. Then dry it off, put it back together, oil up the valves and she's good to go for several months. It is mostly debris that builds up on the inside of the horn that breaks free and works its way into valves. There is just no way around a little maintenence.

I read someone's post about home brewed valve oil and I have given it try. 100% pure unscented lamp oil and 5-6 drops of synthetic motor oil mixed in an oil valve oil bottle. A few extra drops of synthetic motor oil for old worn pistons. So I made a couple bottles of various concentrations. So far so good... it seems to work great. And it lasts longer than the last couple of brands of valve oil that I used. Cost... $8 will fill a dozen or more old small valve oil bottles, so its cheaper to boot.

I dont know what it is but i have this phobia of cleaning my instrument and giving it a bath.............im terrified ill chip it in the tub and/or it will corrode like an old cranky lady.............Can someone give me the famous detailed safe instructions again?? im sure other people are wondering about better methods

I had similar problems, and I broke down and took my horn to the shop to have the valves honed......i think it is a common problem for the 2341's, I had them honed 2 years ago,and havent had a problem since. It cost me $25 per valve to have this procedure done, well worth it for a great horn.
TAKE THE HORN TO A GOOD TECHNICIAN!

I cleaned my horn a couple weeks ago, the usual, with listerine down the lead pipe and the snake. This time....out came a very small, perfectly round, piece of ... green sponge. I have never used a sponge either on the outside or inside my instrument, and I've had it for seven or eight years now. Certainly not the first time I have snaked it either. I guess that sponge was stuck in a joint somewhere.....no, the horn doesn't play any differently that I can discern. "Maybe" it blows a little easier, but I'd be hard pressed to swear to that. Only time anyone else has even touched it was in January when a kind gentleman at a horn workshop loosened a valve slide that had become stubborn.

Puzzling.

MA

i have a king 2341
i had a similar problem
and found the first valve was very gummy
i cleaned the horn and switched from al cass to hetman 2.

before you switch oil be sure to soak the valves in soap and water and clean the valve casing so the valves don't bind.

Is this an older or newer 2341? If it's an older one, it sounds like Bloke's creeping gunk is the likely culprit.

When I had one of the new 2341s, the valves were utterly horrible at first. I started alternating between Blue Juice, Space Filler, and Hetman's, and after about a month the valves worked beautifully. I believe that the combination helped loosen the gunk, dissolve it, and condition the valves as they were breaking in. However, I'll never truly know whether or not they would have broken in the same if I'd stuck to one oil.

Oh knowledgable repair dudes and dudettes:

This thread has sparked my curiosity -- which tubas (in new condition) seem to have valves that work consistently well (in your experience) and which tubas (in new condition) seem to benefit from a little work (of one sort or another) to "improve" their operation?

Is this due to tight tolerances (i.e. too little gap between piston and casing), or to other reasons (manufacturing process control, something else)?

Curious in Kokomo,

Steve Inman