TubeNet

I tried the webpage and sent an email, but the email was sent back. I called the number, but it had been disconnected... Does anybody know how to get in touch with the owner/seller?

Before you invest in something that may or may not work, I suggest you try experimenting with some golfer's lead tape, since it is cheap (probably @ $2 to 3.00), removable, and you can experiment with it by cutting the pieces to fit on more than just valve caps. For example, I have a bit on my receiver, a bit on the exit side of the valve block which helped intonation of high notes amazingly, and a ring on one place on an inner bow that quieted a vibration and also helped smooth out some other issues until I can get some dents taken out and one loose brace resoldered. Quick, cheap, removable, and fast.

two questions

1.What?
2.Why?

jon112780 wrote:I tried the webpage and sent an email, but the email was sent back. I called the number, but it had been disconnected... Does anybody know how to get in touch with the owner/seller?

Mark has not made these for a very long time, and contacting him won't change that.

They are machined from steel and nickel-plated. You can make them from brass, too. Then, they are just soldered onto the back caps of rotary valves. Any tech with a lathe can make them.

I have a set on my Miraphone, which was an experiment for me. They do have an effect, which was a surprise to me. They tended to make the isntrument slot a little more rigidly, and when TubaRay and I tested them, we decided that it was, on balance, useful for me and not for him. There is a difference, but it won't change your life.

Rick "who suspects that with 1-1/2" round bar stock handy, a set could be made using only a band saw and a drill press" Denney

I would try a new pair of sneakers first to see if that helps. Pair that with a good voodoo doll and the results are doubled.

Voodoo aside, if I were tempted to try something like this--

I'd buy a bunch of brass (or even marine bronze or copper) flat washers that had the right dimensions to fit on the back of my valves. I'd then solder-laminate a few up to test what the effect was, removing or adding washers to the stack as appropriate.

No machine tools needed, other than a torch, some flux and solder.

Alternatively, one could bore holes through the washers to accomodate a couple of flathead machine screws recessed into the bottom washer of the stack and simply use a couple of nuts to secure the washers to the stack.

As I said if I were to do it (and I'm not).

I prefer silver. Try a stack of 5 (for a CC, use 6 for a BBb) Morgan Dollars on each valve. Best results are with 1893O specimens.

For some reason I'm thinking a stack of Liberty Double Eagles on each valve would sound better..............

let me chime in here.The one definitive experience i've had with heavyweight anything was a heavy helleberg(one of those beer can on a stick jobs).it DEFINITELY had an affect on my yamaha 822cc. the whole horn vibrated very noticeabley. Not really sure what it did to sound and i sent it back,but there really was some kinda difference.So, to say that there is NO effect,is just wrong,in my experience.Whether it's good or bad, personal choice...

before you go stacking rare coins on the backs of your valves, ask yourself this important question:
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What kind of quarters do you have glued to the spatulas?
In all seriousness, there is no doubt that adding mass to the system (whether mouthpiece, valve caps, lead tape, bell ring/belt or whatever) can alter the response of the instrument; it's up to you to decide whether it's an improvement or not and how much it is worth to you.
MF

Since the Monster Weights aren't available, you can follow the serious advisors on this thread and buy large brass nuts or washer from a hardware store as an acceptable alternative.

I like brass because it is, more or less, the same material your horn is made of. I used a 1.5" diameter brass cap which gave a more finished look.

I differ from others by saying that you should not initially solder them onto your bottom valve caps, instead (ahem) use a small amount of super glue. Also buy super glue remover. Once, you've decided whether you like them or not, you can remove all traces of the super glue and have them soldered by a qualified someone.

Remove the bottom valve caps when super-glueing and work on a table (NOT the dining room table). Put plenty of paper underneath and keep the super glue remover handy (in case you accidently glue your fingers or lips).

Apologies to all anti-super-glue-posters.

Why silver? Why not lead or depleted uranium?

oh yeah....uranium is the "bomb"!

shoe

CJ Krause wrote:i have set up several students with large nuts from the hardware store and then just filled them with silicone or shoe goo

Charlie, that's the darndest thing I've ever heard of--finding students at the hardware store (anatomical peculiarities notwithstanding) and then filling them with silicone.

I thought saline was the material of choice nowadays...

Chuck(G) wrote:

CJ Krause wrote:i have set up several students with large nuts from the hardware store and then just filled them with silicone or shoe goo

Charlie, that's the darndest thing I've ever heard of--finding students at the hardware store (anatomical peculiarities notwithstanding) and then filling them with silicone.

I thought saline was the material of choice nowadays...

You have little cohones!

Charlie has BIG cohones!

Chuck(G) wrote:Charlie, that's the darndest thing I've ever heard of--finding students at the hardware store (anatomical peculiarities notwithstanding) and then filling them with silicone.

The outrageous thing is that he removes their nuts with fishing line or a single-edge razor! That's gonna hurt!
__________________________
Joe Baker, who doesn't want to think about this any more.

CJ Krause wrote:i have set up several students with large nuts from the hardware store

Must be playing Wagner, eh?

bloke wrote:May we p.c. weanies use the S. B. Anthony or Sacagawea versions with equal success?

No! You must select one of these:

________________________________
Joe Baker, who knows how to deal with p.c. weanies.

XtremeEuph wrote:two questions

1.What?
2.Why?

Added mass damps vibration and changes characteristic. The usual point of adding the weights is to stop some unwanted vibration that is causing a note to not intonate cleanly. Adding too much mass can slow down the responsiveness of the horn, however. In my experience, the effects desired can be accomplished by a few grams of weight in the appropriate location, hence my recommendation of golfer's lead tape, rather than ounces, which can be overkill and adversely affect the overall response of the horn. I first added lead tape to the valve caps and bottom of the valve casings; it was too much, intonation lagged, and I took it off. I put a small ring, 3/16 inch wide, around the exit nub of the valve casing, right before the ferrell joining the valve block to the main tuning slide, and all my high notes (from 4th line f on up) improved dramatically in slotting. Instead of Curry caps, I use dimes in the bottom caps of my cornet, and the core and projection of tone improved immensely. Like everything else, depending on the horn and the player, added mass may or may not help, and some do not need it at all.