Help me build a case.

davet · Post by **davet** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:16 pm

I'm going to build a foam filled, "fiberglassed" plywood case for my York monster this spring. My questions are: Where are the most important points of support? - and Where are the "do not touch" points?

Using my limited powers of observation and deduction I have figured out that the valves and their branches have to be "unweighted", but I'm not sure about how to best protect the bell area.

If I put wheels on the thing, should they be at the bottom branch or the bell end of the horn?

Any and all input (even smart a$$ sarcasm) will be appreciated. Well, actually I probably won't appreciate sarcasm, but the other readers will.

Dave

MaryAnn · Post by **MaryAnn** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:04 pm

There are some of us engineer types who would like to see the heavy parts "held fast" and the lighter parts "float in air."

If I were making a case, I'd have the valveset heavily wedged since it's the densest part of the tuba; I'd have the bell not able to touch anything. In general, the more you can spread a force over a large area, as opposed to a pinpoint, the better the tuba will come out of any impact.

I received a flight case from a well-respected custom maker that I sent back because the only thing held securely was the bell, with the rest of the tuba able to swing like a pendulum. I thought that was a recipe for disaster and refused to use the case. I ate $300 on that deal and did not fly with the tuba.

A regular case that only goes in the car....I don't think it matters very much; form-fit dense foam rubber ought to work. I like the wheeled garbage can idea, myself.

MA

trseaman · Post by **trseaman** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:33 pm

Check out this thread and good luck!

viewtopic.php?p=87285&highlight=#87285

davet · Post by **davet** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:04 pm

A regular case that only goes in the car....I don't think it matters very much; form-fit dense foam rubber ought to work. I like the wheeled garbage can idea, myself.

Yeah- I read the old thread and decided to go this route- then discovered that discound store and local lumber big box store cans arent' big enough for the Monster bell + padding

Just to clarify, by "monster" you mean a York Monster E-Flat. Correct?

Yes, the Eb

Thanks for your detailed instructions. I was inspired by seeing my first plywood kayak. If the case works out well I'm going to try a boat to replace my plastic touring kayak. I already have the plywood and fiberglass and just want to get the padding concept right before I start cutting plywood. The cornering reminder for the wheels was an excellent addition. I probably would not have thought that one all the way through until it was too late.

Dave

Art Hovey · Post by **Art Hovey** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:49 pm

Here is some info that you might find useful:

http://www.galvanizedjazz.com/tuba/BigConn.html

wewhit · Post by **wewhit** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 1:00 am

Talk to "Bloke" aka Joe. I have a York Monster Eb and I bought a new case from him that fit pretty well. I added some styrofoam around the bottom bow, a support under the main branches and covered them with "plush felt" from the local Hobby Lobby.

I also added wheels and a second handle. It's a great case. Very useful for normal use, but I don't think it would qualify as a "flight case."

I think he said that it was a "woodworker's supply" case, but I'm not sure.