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Is it the rotor cap that is the problem or the rotor casing? If it's the cap, just get a new one--they basically haven't changed in decades.

If it's the casing, that's more seriouis.

In any case, I wouldn't use a clamp--you'll likely distort the casing.

In any case, there should be almost no leakage around the rear bearing plate, cap or not. It could well be that your first valve is seriously worn or someone put the rear bearing plate on wrong after disassembling the valve.

It's always the safest to see what a repair tech can do for you.

rat81279 wrote:It is definately the casing, you can see that the casing bulges out and the rear plate is perfectly round. It is weird though, the cap still screws on. It is a little harder to get on then the others, but not at all a problem.

There might not be an 'easy' fix. You may end up replacing the complete rotor assembly. Take it to someone who regularly works on rotary horns.

goodgigs wrote:Scotch tape!

No way! Duct tape!!!

Just a thought--I'm not used to seeing that kind of defect out of Miraphone products. I wonder if someone cross-threaded a cap onto the casing and messed up the threads. It's not hard to do--and someone might be tempted to gorilla the cap all the way on.

Whatchall think?

Chuck(G) wrote:Whatchall think?

Dunno, Chuck. Seeing as it is the #1 rotor with the problem, I suspect that perhaps the rotor was bashed and made unround. Without seeing the horn, it's sort of hard to tell. Maybe after the crash, a repairman fixed the leadpipe (or even replaced it) and semi-straightened out the ferrule that attaches it to the 1st rotor.... got that far with the fix, and didn't know what else to do for the rotor housing.

Glad you got the horn going with minimal expense. Congrats!!