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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:23 am
by Lew
I have owned 5 2XJ model tubas, including 3 21Js (the 3 valve upright bell version). I find that they do provide a very large, round, full sound, but I find it hard to play softly on them, even compared to other BATs. They also weigh a ton, so can be fun to transport. The biggest problem with them is the flat third partial. The F just below the staff on most of these is as much as a quarter tone flat. I have found that this can be remedied by playing with 1+3, and playing the G with third valve, but this doesn't help the F#.

Still, they can be fun to play when you need to support a large group.

Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:35 pm
by GC
If you can find a 25J, the 4th valve makes the intonation problems a bit easier to handle. It also turns a 28 pound horn into a 31 pounder.

Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 6:52 pm
by twoconnguy
I would agree with trying to find a 24/25J instead of a 20/21J. Everybody complains about the intonation on these horns, but I don't have that much trouble with it on mine. I play in two community bands, one a 40 piece and one a 65, that have only two tubas, where the other players and I have 2XJ's, and we can support the band quite well. With only two of us, playing soft enough is not a problem, and I often cover string bass cues as well, but I'm also lucky that both directors appreciate a strong low presence. These horns should be played with a tuning bit, and I'm using a Loud LM5 with mine these days. The other player in one of the bands uses a Bach Megatone with his, so I feel that larger deeper mouthpieces seem to work well with these horns. The LM5 helped with the intonation a lot, compared to the Helleberg or Kellyberg that I used before, especially on the F just below the staff. Just my 2 cents worth.

Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 9:53 pm
by GC
I use my 25J in community band, brass band, and occasionally in church orchestras or small brass ensembles. I don't have any problem with not being able to play softly enough, but I avoid mouthpieces with extremely open bores if I need to keep the volume down. A Bayamo works extremely well with this horn.

You can really fill the bottom with these horns, and I don't find them to be difficult to play at all. They usually have a great bottom range, and do better working off the open Eb than using 4th valve combinations for the pedal register.

My only real problem with the horn is the intonation of the 3rd partial (F), and playing it 4th valve is an easy habit to develop. Setting each tuning slide is very important with these horns, or you'll waste too much effort lipping notes down.

A bad 2XJ is a truly terrible instrument, and there are way to many of them out there. However, a good one can be a lot of fun to play.

Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:27 pm
by iiipopes
Hey, Mattheus -- on the Besson you played, which variation was it, and was it that it had bad slots, or just really wide ones? Mine were wide until I wrapped the receiver with lead tape, and now everything slots perfectly. One more little piece of tape around the exit ferrule of the valve block and the high range absolutely locked in.

You're right about the tone. With my Wick 1, which was designed for it, I have great, broad tone. But with the Wick 2, it really tightens up and the tone does get pinched. Interestingly, when I'm playing in a small room where I know the fundamental cannot develop, I use a Bach 18, and the even overtones produced by the rounded cup keep everything usable and blending, without getting harsh or twangy.

I must confess I've never been a fan of Conn 2XJ's. Somehow, with the way I play, the tone is always just too wooly for me. But a lot of guys do get a great sound out of one.

Good luck!

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:06 pm
by iiipopes
Hey, Mattheus -- sorry you had such a bad experience. From your description it doesn't sound like your horn and my horn were made in the same factory, although of course they were. Mine is rock steady from top to bottom. BTW: the "zipper" is where the two triangle sections were inset into what is otherwise a one-piece bell. Most tubas have seams, just on most of the rest the seam is not quite so visible.

Anyway, back to Conns: my experience is inverse to yours. Of course, the only Conn tubas I have played are beat up school horns from the Macmillian era, so that really does color an opinion. If the older 2XJ's are like the Cavalier souzy I play, I'm sure I'd improve my opinion of them immediately.