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You can bend them, just be careful that you don't break them. You can fatigue the metal if you bent them too many times. Just be careful.

Bob1062 wrote:
Also, would replacing the longer 4th paddle with one the same length as the others be easy? Because of my arm angle, I have a lot of pinky finger on the paddle, more than I would like.

How about trimming your pinky???

bloke wrote:Bending those paddles too far might risk having the swirl in your bathtub drain water spin the wrong way......THEN what...!?!?!

Hey! Does that water spin one direction north of the equator and the other direction south of the equator? Does the water in the tub and the water in the toiled spin the same direction?

Bob1062 wrote:Thanks guys. I was thinking along the lines of something simple, maybe even bending them. Would that affect the operation of the valves?

Bob... the simple answer here is to try it the way it is for a while before making any modifications. We're all creatures of habit and since you are used to your old axe, the new horn might feel a bit strange for a short period. If after a couple of weeks, the horn is still uncomfortable... then think about making some changes.

Here's the $750 answer to your question.

Before...



After...

http://www.daveamason.com/tuba/willson_ ... evised.pdf

Work was done by Robb Stewart, who among other things, built Tommy Johnson's two double tubas, Jim Self's Fluba and Selfone, and a ton of other amazing stuff.

This PDF was put together for Willy Kurath a while back, but I thought I'd share it with y'all...

...Dave

A neat bit of work! It does make one wonder why manufacturers do not usually angle the paddles in the first place.

Neptune wrote:A neat bit of work! It does make one wonder why manufacturers do not usually angle the paddles in the first place.

Neptune wrote:A neat bit of work! It does make one wonder why manufacturers do not usually angle the paddles in the first place.

It sure would've been easier to just put a bit of space in-between the 5th and 1st rotors, a la the B&S F setup. That'd would've dropped the paddles into a more ergonomically sensible position. Even less of an issue with this horn, as it's a straight bore though the valve block.

If the horn wasn't such a pip, I would've never kept it in the first place, and could've saved myself some big buxx at Robb's.

...D

While he was at it, why didn't he flip the two rotors and adjust the linkage accordingly to have them all open the same direction?

Tubaryan12 wrote:

Neptune wrote:A neat bit of work! It does make one wonder why manufacturers do not usually angle the paddles in the first place.

One guy thought he had it figured out!

iiipopes wrote:While he was at it, why didn't he flip the two rotors and adjust the linkage accordingly to have them all open the same direction?

That, of course, presumes that a washed-up, also-ran community band honker like me would even notice the difference!



Honestly, I don't really have an informed answer on that one. I guess the only thing I can think of is that if it really was a silver bullet, everyone would be doing it. Maybe it's akin to lacquer vs. unlacquer, heavyweight mouthpiece vs. lightweight mouthpiece, etc.? I dunno. I'm just gasbagging, really. Please feel free to flame me with impunity...

...D

the elephant wrote:

TubaTinker wrote:

Tubaryan12 wrote:

One guy thought he had it figured out!

Nice, old Marzan, Dan! Good photo. Those horns play pretty darn well, IIRC.

That particular horn belongs to Ryan Roberts. My Marzan is a piston horn. wish I had a slant-rotor!

I used a slant rotor CC as my main symphony horn for the better part of 20 years, and only came to appreciate it more!

Wade,

The (B&M made) Marzan slant rotor CC's I've played have been very consistent- they sound like mine, but they all seem to have a very flat D on the staff. Oddly enough, Eb and E natural seemed to be much better. F a little sharp. Must be the bugel.

I got so used to using that upper main, it became second nature. And with a Mirafone Rose Solo 'piece, it had a glorious (I thought) sound. So much the better, so did guest conductors. A lot of presence.

The frankenflugel was a youthful indescretion... who knew that those flugels would be worth so much now "unmolested" ?

From my experience on these Marzan tubas:

Rotary BBb - everyone I've played had good intonation and even response

Rotary CC - most have the even response, few pitch quirks, but all still managable

Piston Tubas - AHHH!!!!!! Need a lot of help with the tuning.

Just my .02 worth.

That horn has instantly transformed me from a crappy tuba player into a crappy tuba player with a halfway decent sound. All credit goes to the horn. It's even better with the 4th valve extention and all 4 pennies. .

ASTuba wrote:From my experience on these Marzan tubas:

Piston Tubas - AHHH!!!!!! Need a lot of help with the tuning.

Just my .02 worth.

HUH! There must be a bad one out there somewhere, then.... or it wasn't one of the B & M built horns. The only bum note on my piston Marzan (B & M) is a sharp Db below the staff... fully fixable with alternate fingerings. It's the first BBb tuba I've ever played where the BBb, F, and Bb line up within a few cents.

Bob1062 wrote:Nifty Willson!

Can all the paddles on a rotary horn be exchanged with each other?

That depends on how much trouble you wish to go to. Usually (I DID say 'usually'!)... the #1 and #2 assemblies will interchange and the #3 and #4 assemblies will interchange. Beyond that, all the parts will interchange if you want to break down the paddles and links. It's not difficult to make new custom paddles if you can cut, braze, and machine brass and nickel materials.

Why don't all current manufactured rotary horns come with a slant action?? Fred Marzan had a good idea.

r smith wrote:Why don't all current manufactured rotary horns come with a slant action?? Fred Marzan had a good idea.

Because it doesn't fit everybody.

Rick "who prefers a more vertical arrangement" Denney