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So I was using Hetman's for a while now with great results, however I then learned that the oil creates weird plasticy deposits all over the valve section. These were always there when I cleaned my horn and oiled my valves, but I thought that it was just something from me

So once I heard someone else mention that Hetman's does this, I decided to try switching straight over to Alisyn for a while. I figured the tiny amount of heavy synthetic that you apply would reduce the possibility of getting deposits...and I was right. No deposits whatsoever, proving that the hetmans is the culprit. The problem though is that I don't really like the idea of only oiling my valves once a week (Alisyn is heavy, you only use a couple drops) since I don't think it protects against corrosion as well. Also the valve action isn't quite as good, and the valves get stiff if I don't play for a day or two.

Anyways, my question....

Has anyone
1) Had this problem with deposits with Hetman's oil

and

2)Switched to another oil, using the same oiling habits as the Hetman's, and gotten absolutely no deposits?


With most oils, I like to oil the valves every day, regardless of if they need it or not. This is probably one reason why I get deposits, but I'd like to see if there's a cleaner way.
Thanks for your help

What grade Hetman's were you using? You may want to switch to the lightest grade you can use; I have used their "Light" grades for both pistons and rotors. FWIW, I have also found that I did not have to oil the pistons more than once every few days and rarely (like once or twice a month) have to oil the rotors.

[quote="Scooby Tuba"]I found that when I used the oil and slide grease I got a weird yellow funk from the combo./quote]

On a P how it is getting mixed up together? I could understand if you were pouring it down the valve loop to get to a rotor. I am using Hetmann rotor oil, linkage oil and slide grease and havn't seen anything like you are seeing.

I've used only two types of valve oil for the past 6 years: Hetman's, and Zaja Blue. Yeah, Hetman's will leave stuff on your valves, but if you wipe them down with a cloth, they're fine.

Zaja Blue is nice, because it has teflon in it, and creates a nice smooth valve action. It does say you have to use it each time you pick up your instrument, but I find it works really well.

Alisyn, IMO, doesn't work well for low brass. It's a decent trumpet oil, but not good for low brass.

Should've specified that of course...

I'm using the light piston, #1

The only two slide greases I used were Selmer (pink stuff) and recently lanolin, both of them I only used once in a while, and same results with either.

To be more specific about the residue, it's not actually on the pistons themselves, it is in the knukles around the valves in the tubing, and on the bottom of the valve caps. It even makes its way down the tuning slides. It is a fairly substantial material, not just a little dirt.

ASTuba wrote:I've used Zaja Blue.

Even regular Zaja is good!
I like chocolate and vanilla...
It's also cheaper...
and makes the horn smell good.

[quote="Scooby Tuba]Is your horn silver? I bet not. Take clean white cloth and you'll find it.[/quote]

No. I'm playing a brass Mira 184. I just dissasembled it for a bath a couple of weeks ago and didn't notice anything at all on the rotors. In fact I was amazed at how bright and clean they were. However, I just walked over to my trumpet which hardly ever gets played, pulled the first valve out and viola! White gunk! Maybe it's a piston thing. Man that stuff is stubborn too.

ive been using hetman forever. never had a problem with 'yellow junk' are u a smoker?

Roche-Thomas: colorless, odorless, works as well as the best and better than most, including the "popular" brands, doesn't dilute, doesn't residue, doesn't react with slide lubricants, CHEAP: a 16 oz bottle doesn't cost any more than some of the 1 to 2 oz bottles of the boutique brands.

I use it straight for most of my brass instruments, and on my Besson with the valves starting to wear I just pour out of the main bottle into a 1 oz bottle with a few drops of mineral oil to thicken it slightly.

Roche-Thomas + small bottle of mineral oil from the pharmacy costs 1/2 as much and lasts years longer than a bottle of Hetman's classic.

So I was using Hetman's for a while now with great results, however I then learned that the oil creates weird plasticy deposits all over the valve section. These were always there when I cleaned my horn and oiled my valves, but I thought that it was just something from me

Yes, I have experienced EXACTLY what you described. I discussed this issue with Matt at the Army conference last year, and you know what he recommended? Blue Juice! I cleaned my horn after that, started using the Blue Juice and I've observed no more deposits or yellow residue!

I used the Blue Juice exactly the same way I use the Hetmans...I oil my Yamaha valves everytime I play, regardless of whether they need it or not. I'm no repairman, but it seems to work for me. I've never had sticky valves with either of these two!

Downside of the Blue Juice...it does have a fairly strong petroleum odor, so if that bothers you, this may not be a good choice. I've gotten used to it.

-

Ryan_Beucke wrote: To be more specific about the residue, it's not actually on the pistons themselves, it is in the knukles around the valves in the tubing, and on the bottom of the valve caps. It even makes its way down the tuning slides. It is a fairly substantial material, not just a little dirt.

That is exactly the problem I saw using Hetman's #1. I oil lightly every time I play. I have now gone back to Al Cass Fast - - no problem gunk now!

After "doing the rounds" I ended up with plain old Blue Juice, which I suspect is merely kerosene with a blue dye in it. I have to use it more often but my valves are fast and don't stick. Rotors, that is. But I also use it on my piston euph. The horn I can oil once a week but the euph I have to oil every time I use it.

I tried Hetman's on the horn but the valves were slow. I didn't use it long enough to notice whether there was a gunk buildup.

Always have used the Selmer "pink stuff" on the slides, which need it only occasionally even though the horn slides get pulled umpteen times during a typical playing session.

MA

I had exactly the same problem with my Yamaha 842 euph. Hetmans #1 left a very soft plastic like residue in the valves. I switched back to the Yamaha brand valve oil which Yamaha shipped with the horn -- no deposits and the valves work just as well.

I've been using Ultrapure Lamp Oil for quite some time now, and I have had no problems whatsoever. It's also pretty cheap ($4.00 a quart).