Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:41 pm
Make sure your stem is not bent and rubbing against the valve cap, that's all I can think of.
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Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 9:22 pm
I've got a 4 -5 yr. old Mira 1295 and all 4 of the stems are like that. I've had no valve or stem damage; even had the valves aligned & everything is working fine. I've just attributed it to a poor laquer job in that area. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're concerned about the cosmetics. I agree; a new horn shouldn't flake like that.
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 1:14 am
They lacquer valve stems? 
Well, if it's an itch and it's driving you nuts, you could always have the stems nickel (or gold) plated. Should be fairly cheap and you wouldn't have to worry ( ) about the lacquer on them...
Well, if it's an itch and it's driving you nuts, you could always have the stems nickel (or gold) plated. Should be fairly cheap and you wouldn't have to worry (
) about the lacquer on them...Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 2:43 am
For information all the valve stems on my three year old Miraphone 1261 exhibit similar wear. I suspect that the lacquer process is different to that applied to the body of the instrument. If there is a next time for new instrument purchase it will be silver finish. 
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.Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 11:13 am
The real question is... how will the removal of lacquer from the valve stems affect the sound?
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 11:41 am
Because you're removing material, the partials of the respective valves go flat.quinterbourne wrote:The real question is... how will the removal of lacquer from the valve stems affect the sound?
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 1:17 pm
If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 4:26 pm
I've heard that audition committees are becoming increasingly sensitive to this sort of thing, as well as the live performance-supporting public.
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 5:03 pm
Why not have some turned from stainless? Or you could go the bicycle racing components route and have them machined from titanium. Maybe palladium would be a nice touch--perhaps with emeralds and sapphires set in each valve cap...iiipopes wrote:If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 5:22 pm
I'd like to be able to get some trick valve buttons. My teacher is from Arizona and is really into turquoise. Would be neat to get him some turquoise buttons. I'd like some jade buttons myself.... Maybe that will be my little shade tree business in my dottage. About thirty dollars for three, forty for four, etc.Chuck(G) wrote:Why not have some turned from stainless? Or you could go the bicycle racing components route and have them machined from titanium. Maybe palladium would be a nice touch--perhaps with emeralds and sapphires set in each valve cap...iiipopes wrote:If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
I bet the trumpet guys would go bananas for 'em. Especially if I put 'em in a jar of dry ice and said they were 'cryogenically treated'...