TubeNet

Hi.

I'm considering in having my Rudy to have the rotors vented as I'm experiencing the "pop" sound when I adjust slides. Of course, the general rule of thumb is to depress the valve before changing the slide length. My question is, would it make sense to have the rotors ventend to eliminate the "pop" sound in the slide? Besides the elimination of the "pop" sound and maybe smoother slurs, are there other advantages with venting the rotors? Are there disadvantages I should be aware of before having the procedure done? With a hole in the casing, is it likely that there will be leakage when the valve is being engaged?

Also, do you have any experience with any Rudolf Meinl F tubas? Particularly the 4/4 size with 6 valves? I would like to know about your opinions about Rudy F tubas.

Thanks very much for your help.

Frank

Venting a rotor is a simple operation and involves drilling a small hole in the casing between the legs of the tuning slide.

If done correctly, it shouldn't affect the playing characteristics. Unless they've changed their manufacturing, I believe that Miraphone rotary tubas come from the factory with the valves vented.

I just had the rotars of my one 5/4 rudy vented. Slurring seems a bit smoother, and there is certainly no "pop" when I depress valves. I caution you though... make sure your repairman is highly skilled with this. Were they to "miss" you could have yourself an air leak that would require fixing. Also, having them vented brings about the problem of having air escape everytime you push down a valve. It is rather annoying at first, but I've gotten used to it. My co-workers don't seem to notice it from afar, but my section mate hears it as readily as I do. Best of luck with having her vented. It'd be good to hear a followup after you've gone through with it.

Chuck(G) wrote:If done correctly, it shouldn't affect the playing characteristics. Unless they've changed their manufacturing, I believe that Miraphone rotary tubas come from the factory with the valves vented.

My Miraphone 188 has all 5 valves vented. They work fine and really help out with having to pull a slide. I wanted the same on my F and ended up having an Amado water key placed on the first valve slide instead. It took about a day to get used to but I'm fine with it now. I went this direction because my F is piston (Yamaha 822) and saw the water key option as the safer approach.

I hope the venting works out.

.

winston wrote:When the valves aren't vented and you depress a piston or turn a rotary valve, does it do physical damaga to the valve casing or any other part of the tuba?

No, not really.

i guess alot of us out here are idiots then. maybe you could give Mr. Baer a few lessons to help eliminate his need for slide pulling.

cc_tuba_guy wrote:With this post, I mean no offense, so please keep that in mind.

Why would one play a horn where you need to yank the slides so much where you need to vent them? I play a very well built MW 2155 where 95% of the notes are in tune. The others I just lip in tune. Is it the rotors?

Something that Pat Sheridan mentioned at a recent masterclass stuck in my mind. "You don't adjust slides to tune; you adjust them for tone."

If I had a tuba that was so badly out of whack that I couldn't buzz a note in tune without manipulating a slide, I might think about getting another tuba. Or working on my buzzing technique. The responsibility for tuning lies between the ears and not on the horn.

OTOH, a note played in tune but "off-center" will not have the same tonal quality as one buzzed centered on the resonant peak. So there is a valid reason to manipulate a slide.

Or so I think.

Doc wrote:Try playing an Alexander. You'll appreciate any other horns intonation, or lack thereof, after that. Alexander gives new meaning to pulling slides and alternate fingerings.
Doc

I've got an Alex 163. After changing the leadpipe from the 60's original to a new one, I get by fine with only a couple of alternate fingerings for the 5th partials.