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If I wanted a replacement leadpipe for a King 2341 (now a Gnagey C) are they readily available?

Also, if anyone should know, do the large diameter fingerbuttons on the 'new' 2341's have the same thread as the old ones? I know the valve-tops are presumably different but that's fine- mine aren't stock.

Thanks for any help,
MP

Peach wrote:If I wanted a replacement leadpipe for a King 2341 (now a Gnagey C) are they readily available?

Also, if anyone should know, do the large diameter fingerbuttons on the 'new' 2341's have the same thread as the old ones? I know the valve-tops are presumably different but that's fine- mine aren't stock.

Thanks for any help,
MP

1. I'd ask Sam. I'm guessing your horn has a custom leadpipe made by Sam. When he cut it to CC and added the different bell, Sam probably had to make a leadpipe just for the horn. If it isn't a custom leadpipe, he could probably fix you up with one also.

2. I had my 2340 in having the valves worked on and asked about the 'modern' flat buttons. The consensus was that they wouldn't work on an older horn because the top caps of the older valves was different and the buttons are recessed into the cap when depressed.

Search for Sam's e-mail here.

Replacement lead pipes for the 2341 are readily available from Conn-Selmer.

Be careful.

The older leadpipes are slightly shorter than the newer ones. I've had this problem a few times. A couple times, King actually shipped the newer ones with the old leadpipe, with the leak and the gap; about .25 inches difference.

The big finger buttons are the same thread but neither buttons are intercangable with the other's caps. However, the old caps can have the outer top ring removed to make them work with the new bottons. The other way, the old buttons (for those who feel cheated by King removing the pearls) require similar machining to the caps to make them fit inside the old buttons.

Easiest to just buy the caps and buttons trogether, but that'll be a couple hundred probably...

J.c.S.

I've already trimmed the valve-tops/top-caps with a view of making/buying some large-diameter buttons. Just wondering if the threads were alike...

On the leadpipe front, I'm pretty much certain Sam bent the old King pipe. I bent it some more and it didn't like that. I can have a replacement made quite readily but am checking stock-options. New pipes are presumably pre-bent? Little spare length is never a bad thing (!) since it'll want bending and trimming anyway.

If anyone knows the cost of the leadpipe or the wide-buttons, would they PM/Mail me. I'll also mail Conn...

Thanks for the replies.
MP

Peach wrote:I've already trimmed the valve-tops/top-caps with a view of making/buying some large-diameter buttons. Just wondering if the threads were alike... MP

I think you'll find that on all but the latest Kings, the length of the valve stem will have to be altered, too. Seems to me that the King stems are pretty long since the caps are quite high and the finger buttons have a pretty long 'skirt'.

Those pre-bent leadpipes that are offered by Conn-Selmer and Allied only fit the newer King 234X tubas. The pre-90's ones take a leadpipe that can be easily bent from a generic replacement.

Malcolm,
One of the factors that I considered when I put my first CC tubas together was readily available replacement parts. I hope that my creations remain in service for many years to come.
The lead pipe is available straight and pitch filled from Allied Supply. Their part number is A222. If you can't obtain one in the UK just write to me, and I'll get one shipped to you. A good repair person should be able to bend the new pipe to fit your horn and position it to meet your playing needs.
Sam