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I've used this stuff on and off for several years. If you get too much on the valve (piston) it will slow right down. Recently tried the Binak Pro with similar results. Hetmans doen't have the same viscosity issues, however it doesn't seem to last as long either.

I pull my pistons once a week and clean them so I tend to use the Hetmans.

I started using Binak on my F tuba several months ago and I use Hetman's on my CC. I have been comparing the two to decide which I like better before I make a total switch. I must say that I really like the Binak. I apply just a couple drops and rub it all over the valve and put it back in (like the instructions say to) and have had absolutely no trouble with the valves being slow or getting stuck. Also, I find that I don't have to oil my valves as often. Plus if your horn is ever exposed to very cold weather your valves will not freeze. Binak is rated down to -50 F.

I have also been using the Binak slide grease and am satisfied with it as well. However, I put a little valve oil on to thin it out a little bit.

I think I will discontinue my Hetman's use and start using Binak on both my horns.

TMB

I use Binak Pro on my tuba, 3 baritones, trumpet, flugel and alto and have for a number of years. I don't use it on trombone slides.

I agree with the above reviews. And you have to be careful to use it sparingly. Works great on rotary valves.

If you start using it on a horn that has had other oils, especially a combination of oils as you were trying out various options I strongly suggest that you clean out all the valve casings, rotor, valves, etc with Simple Green. You really don't want to mix this stuff with other products.

Even then, it will take a couple of applications to be sure everything is cleaned out and that the Binak has evenly coated everything properly. The instructions say use it sparingly, and they mean it.

If you're in the habit of slathering in a bunch of oil every time you pick your horn you are going to over apply this product and make a mess.

On my tuba I may oil the rotor journals once every 2-3 months.

On valved instruments, more often. I don't inject it into the bottom of the valves at all. I pull the valve from the top, wipe it down with a clean soft cloth, and then put on a couple of drops of the Binak. Spin the valve into the casing to distribute the oil. Tighten it up and go.

I just ordered 2 more bottles of the Binak Pro this week. Not because I keep using it up, but because I try to keep a bottle in each instrument case so I don't have to hunt for the stuff when I need it. I think I still have some of the original bottle I bought when this stuff first came out. Did I mention, use it sparingly?

YMMV.

http://www.simplegreen.com/

Sorry, I don't know if you can buy it in Germany or not.

Edit: http://www.simplegreen.ch/page.php

lgb&dtuba wrote:I just ordered 2 more bottles of the Binak Pro this week. Not because I keep using it up, but because I try to keep a bottle in each instrument case so I don't have to hunt for the stuff when I need it. I think I still have some of the original bottle I bought when this stuff first came out. Did I mention, use it sparingly?

YMMV.

Indeed it does. I purchase a large bottle of Roche-Thomas and keep the little bottles filled for each instrument. Much less expensive that way. Of course, after trying all the common and boutique valve oils out there, my saliva chemistry and wallet is most compatible with Roche-Thomas.

With the R-T, you don't have to worry about being "sparing," as it is less expensive and not critical to application, but does not dilute easily, either.

Also, being a conventional oil, for horns with worn valves, I can add a drop of pharmacy grade mineral oil to the small horn case bottle to thicken it up to compensate for piston wear, with no detriment to action. You can't do that without risk of reaction causing sludge with synthetics.

For the price of the Binak or Hetmans small bottle, I have a 16 oz bottle of Roche-Thomas that lasts longer than both of them put together.

Your mileage will vary. But the destination is the same.

Next I'll rant about spending less than $2 on a 4-oz bottle of Singer sewing machine oil at WallyWorld that is a better rotor spindle lubricant than all the rest of the boutique oils put together, and a cheap bottle of 3-In-1 oil for the rotor linkage, also better than anything else out there, as recommended by Roger Lewis.

Once I started using BinakPro (several years ago) I've never felt the need to find anything better. For me it works great. I used to be a Roche Thomas user but not any more.

You MUST follow the instructions however - applying it to clean valves. It does not mix well with other oils/oil residue. Only a small amount is needed - I use two drops on each euph. valve. That's it. It will last me weeks. Seriously. And I can leave my horn alone for a month at a time (yeah, I know, lecture me all you want, the hardest part about practicing is opening the case) and when I come back to it - the valves are fine. When I do reapply, I wipe off the valves first with a clean rag.

One bottle ought to last a very long time.

on the VMI, B&S and Melton/Meinl Weston horns, when new are quite tight and it has been reported to me by a VERY reliable source that Blue Juice is the best valve oil fr the newer Meinl Weston valves. There may be others that will work as well, but will probably need to be a little on the thin side.

Just a communication from the other side.
Roger

I gave BiNaK a thorough test a few years ago. It worked fine on my York Master, but I was never able to get my Yamaha 621 F tuba clean enough for it to work there. (That tuba is picky--I had been using Alisyn because it was the only oil that would not stick when playing outdoors on a hot day, and that describes my entire time at Fiesta Texas.)

And, with time, accumulating foreign grease in the York Master gummed up the valves. The BiNaK slide grease is not to my preference, and in the end I just got tired of BiNaK's fussiness.

So, I switched to Hetman's, and have never looked back. Now that my Holton valves are nice and new again, I'll be stocking up on Hetman's Light. The Classic is a bit heavy for the Holton now, but it works really well on my Conn 14K. The Light also works well on the Yamaha.

Hetman oil has none of the fussiness, and will work and play well with other lubricants. I also like their specifically compatible slide grease and slide oil.

Rick "who just wants the valves to work" Denney

I agree with Rick. My experience suggests that the older and looser/leaky your valves the more appropriate Binak might be. For the rest of us Hetman or Musichem products are the way to go.

joh_tuba wrote:I agree with Rick. My experience suggests that the older and looser/leaky your valves the more appropriate Binak might be. For the rest of us Hetman or Musichem products are the way to go.

I'm using it right now on a new euph with fairly tight valves.

I don't know or make any assertions about why Binak works better on some horns than others, but it will clearly work well on new valves, not just old/worn.