TubeNet

There are alot of good valve oils out there and it got me to thinking, what do the rest of you tube-netters out there use with performing standard maintenance and up-keep on your horn?

Personally I use the Yamaha synthetic valve oil and slide grease, but that's because I got alot of it for free when I marched corps this summer.

This is what I use on my trombone, euphonium, and tuba - and others I always have on hand.

Valve oil:

*Blue Juice - for euphonium
*Hetman Classic Piston - for the older valves on my Conn 20J
*Al Cass - for my private students if they have forgotten theirs (unfortunately, it happens)

Rotor oil:

*Hetman Light Rotor - for the axial flow valve on my Shires trombone
*Hetman Light Bearing and Linkage - for the axial flow valve on my Shires trombone

Tuning slide grease:

*Hetman w/Lanolin

Slide grease (trombone):

*Yamaha Slide Oil (Yamaha version of Slide-O-Mix Rapid Comfort) - my favorite slide lube
*SOM Rapid Comfort - I have it on hand in case a student needs it (most of them use this product)
*Trombotine - works better on older horns (IMO)

...hmm, I think that's it.

At my lesson yesterday, my tuba teacher helped me out a whole lot.

He saw how horrible my slides were at my appointment with my pianist for my solo this year (They are friends), so, before coming to my hosue for the lesson, he stopped by the auto parts store and bought me a bottle of oil treatment. That stuff works magic on my slides and you hardly need any to make all the slides run free.

If'n you're lookin' fer some grease, czech that out.

Unless a customer brings in his own lubricants, every horn that leaves here has a ultrapure lamp oil and motor oil mix on the pistons or rotor bearings and Synco 'Superlube' on the slides. Other moving parts such as rotor linkages are lubed with a heavier mix of lamp oil and motor oil.

TubaTinker wrote:Unless a customer brings in his own lubricants, every horn that leaves here has a ultrapure lamp oil and motor oil mix on the pistons or rotor bearings and Synco 'Superlube' on the slides. Other moving parts such as rotor linkages are lubed with a heavier mix of lamp oil and motor oil.

What is the proper ratio of Ultrapure to motor oil (and what weight?)?

OldsRecording wrote:

TubaTinker wrote:Unless a customer brings in his own lubricants, every horn that leaves here has a ultrapure lamp oil and motor oil mix on the pistons or rotor bearings and Synco 'Superlube' on the slides. Other moving parts such as rotor linkages are lubed with a heavier mix of lamp oil and motor oil.

What is the proper ratio of Ultrapure to motor oil (and what weight?)?

2 ounces of lamp oil with just a couple of drops of 30 weight motor oil for tight valves. More motor oil for worn valves..... up to maybe a 10% mix for rotor bearings and sax pivots. That's the nice thing about mixing your own stuff.... you can design a mix that works for you.

TubaTinker wrote:

OldsRecording wrote:

TubaTinker wrote:Unless a customer brings in his own lubricants, every horn that leaves here has a ultrapure lamp oil and motor oil mix on the pistons or rotor bearings and Synco 'Superlube' on the slides. Other moving parts such as rotor linkages are lubed with a heavier mix of lamp oil and motor oil.

What is the proper ratio of Ultrapure to motor oil (and what weight?)?

2 ounces of lamp oil with just a couple of drops of 30 weight motor oil for tight valves. More motor oil for worn valves..... up to maybe a 10% mix for rotor bearings and sax pivots. That's the nice thing about mixing your own stuff.... you can design a mix that works for you.

Hmmmm... might give it a shot. I've been using Ultrapure for a while now, but it's never been perfect. Thanks.

So what is the benefit of ultrapure lamp oil vs. regular valve oil such as hetmans?

Piston Valve Oil: La Tromba Synthetic. has silicon which is perfect on my valves. it gums up every 6 months and just wipe it out and start over.

Rotor Oil: Hetmans (rotor, bearing and linkage 6&12 i think). it was used on the horn when i bought it. came with it. works fine. if it ain't broke don' fixit.

slide grease: S series. the stuff that looks like chap stick. great for normal slides and can be thinned with a drop of oil. for looser slides i use La Tromba. again, came with the horn and i like it.

-casey

I use Binak Pro on all rotors and valves, tuba, euphs, trumpets and alto. Anhydrous lanolin on tuning slides. I don't pull slides, so they don't need to be super slick.

On all my trombones I uses generic drug store unscented cold cream and water from a small spray bottle. Sparingly.

I do not use petroleum based anything on any horns. I can't stand the odors and I think using petroleum based lubes is one of the primary causes for needing to wash out horns. Opinions on that will vary wildly. (Donning flame retardent suit.)

Dan,

Is this the SuperLube product you use on slides?


P/N - 21030

Thanks.

josh wagner wrote:So what is the benefit of ultrapure lamp oil vs. regular valve oil such as hetmans?

PRICE!!!! I can make a GALLON of valve oil for what a 2 ounce bottle of Hetmans costs. Hetmans is a synthetic and is very good stuff.... if you use a synthetic, don't borrow a squirt of oil from your buddy. Lots of times mixing lubricants produces bad results if mixed. I like to make my own valve oils simply because I use so darned much of them. I literaly 'flood' my pistons with valve oil. It's my way of washing off any crud or lint that might be present. This idea of putting 'six drops' of valve oil on each piston is to me a waste of time.

Before I try to expain the virtues of 'what's the best lubricant' any further.... let me say this....

The lubricants you use on your horn are as personal as what mouthpiece you choose to use. Like most everything in life... you should use what suits you. What the fellow sitting next to you in band is using might be totally wrong for you.

How does this work with rotary valves? - Since they have such small bearing areas relative to Pistons, does the Ultra-pure lamp oil provide enough film strength to stand up to the pressures? - I'm interested since I also like to use a lot of oil (15-20 drops) down the leadpipe before I play, but don't want to mix (as you mentioned) with different lube on the spindle bearings. I've always used Hetmans for linkages, spindles, and slides. -

TubaSailor wrote:How does this work with rotary valves?

Number one.... I don't advocate 'flooding' rotary valves with oil. Yes... I've dumped oil down the leadpipe but only in extreme circumstances and I knew I would be giving the horn a good cleaning shortly thereafter. The only oil I apply to my rotors is to the spindles at the front and rear bearings. For this, I use a mix of almost straight 30 weight with just enough lamp oil in it to thin it out so it 'looks right'. Ideally, I want the oil to STAY ON the bearings and OUT of the rotor itself. It is my opinion that rotors were never intended to be flooded in oil. It just slows them down. There is enough moisture introduced into the rotors while playing to seal them. After a while, that oil that I put on the bearings will migrate into the rotors. THAT's when I clean them.

Lubrication of rotary valves is a totally different animal from pistons.

Wow,
Every time lubrication issues are mentioned, a Can-O-Worms gets opened!

1) "Anhydrous" means that the mixture contains water, so anhydrous lanolin is a bad idea for a slide grease. In summer humidity it gets gooey and messy, and in really dry weather it can leave your slides glued in place. I prefer Hetman #8 Slide Grease, a pretty yellow like lanolin, but will not dry out, and is non-toxic and stable.

2) Hetman lubricants are synthetic hydrocarbons, but have no silicones like other synthetics are based upon, so they ARE COMPATIBLE with all traditional, conventional lubricants. Joe Hetman is a brass player, and he realizes that at one time or another (normally just before a rehearsal or gig), we are going to mix valve oils (Hey, can I borrow some valve oil?)

2) If you want to play alchemist, fine, but don't think you are saving money unless you consider your time to have no value. When a single bottle of Hetman valve oil will outlast 8 bottles of a popular brand of valve oil and do a better job of protecting the instrument, I'm saving money in several ways at once. I don't try to make my own motor oil for my gig van. So, I don't try to make my own valve oil for the tuba I'll play, either, that is worth several times what the van is worth!

3) I recommend being generous with valve oil, and particularly with rotor oil, on a clean instrument. It stays oiled longer. If the horn is dirty-enough that oiling it well will cause chunks to come loose and mess up the action, it needs to be cleaned now, anyway.

Feel free to PM with any questions about lubricants. In the last 30-some years, I've tried just about everything on my instruments.

Lee Stofer wrote:Wow,
Every time lubrication issues are mentioned, a Can-O-Worms gets opened!

1) "Anhydrous" means that the mixture contains water, so anhydrous lanolin is a bad idea for a slide grease. In summer humidity it gets gooey and messy, and in really dry weather it can leave your slides glued in place. I prefer Hetman #8 Slide Grease, a pretty yellow like lanolin, but will not dry out, and is non-toxic and stable.

No, actually anhydrous means it contains NO water. Ref:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anhydrous

If you don't use anhydrous lanolin you'll run into the problems mentioned.

Yes, you're right, I misspoke, let me rephrase that.

Anhydrous does mean that the chemical mixture has been formulated by extraction of water. In my experience, when moisture is re-introduced by playing and by hot, humid weather, the mixture does tend to get a bit gooey. It is completely safe to use in a warm, moist climate.

On the other hand, I received two overhauled tubas back from silver-plating, and the company had installed the slides with anhydrous lanolin. While waiting for the paperwork to materialize from a school that was to purchase these tubas, they sat in the shop for several winter months in their new cases. When the time to deliver them finally came, I decided to give the instruments a once-over, just to see that everything was right when the school received them. I worked for hours to extract the slides without damaging or breaking something. It was as if the slides had been installed with contact cement. Once I did finally get the slides out, they looked fine. Once I got the stuff off of the slides, which now felt much like glue, and re-lubricated the slides with Hetman #8, they worked fine and still do to this day, some 6 years later. I cannot adequately explain why the lanolin dried out and became like glue, but it happened. The slides did work when the instruments first came back to my shop, and once extracted, the slides looked as clean as ever.

When I do my cleaning work and Hetman lubrication, my customers tend to say it feels like brand-new again. That is what I'm after, having the instrument perform like-new, no matter how old it may be, whether it is mine or someone else's.

At the Army Conference, I bought a couple of years' supply of Hetmans lubricants. It cost $50. Maybe I would try to save a buck if I was using it by the barrel as in a shop, but trying to spend less than that for my own use is probably chasing dollars with pennies. I would save a lot by not forgetting bottles of the stuff at rehearsals, but then there are high-school kids at the school where we rehearse who don't have sticky valves because of me.

And I just buy the stuff that says on the bottle what I want to do. Hetmans has great packaging, including very useful needle-tip bottles for rotor and linkage oil. So far, I've found their labeling to be highly appropriate for the applications, including such things as tuning slide oil (for slides that get a lot of exercise) and stiff grease (for those that don't).

Hetmans will mix with anything unlike BiNaK or Alisyn, both of which I have used extensively in the past.

When I apply Hetmans, I don't just apply six drops, either. I give it a good squirt, letting the excess drip down into the casing.

The bottle I spilled on the carpet last weak soaked into a cleaning towel so well that I didn't have to expose my accident to my wife. (Hetmans used eyedropper bottles for a while but thankfully that 'safety' requirement is no longer enforced on them.) Most other oils would have left a mark.

Rick "who has also experienced stuck slides because of glue-like lanolin" Denney

Hey, Rick -- I'm with you on the rest of the section not having sticky valves. That's another reason I buy the R-T in the big bottle. This may sound mercenary, but I don't want to be blamed for the section sounding bad when it's some other, person, who forgot valve oil. So for the two cents it costs me in valve oil, it covers a multitude of section sins.[/code]

Rick Denney Wrote:
[When a single bottle of Hetman valve oil will outlast 8 bottles of a popular brand of valve oil and do a better job of protecting the instrument, I'm saving money in several ways at once]

I'm a firm believer that proper lubrication is the #1 way to keep any quality machine working well. I really don't know enough of the chemistry to challenge anyone else's viewpoint on this one, but I do know that for me, Hetman's has always worked well. I've had similar experience with Lanolin - When I purchased the 181, the slides had lanolin on them, and behaved as if they were lubed with molasses. I now use Hetman's Slide Gel. which not only lubes well, but doesn't leave prison stripes on the lap of my tux.