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I put a vote in for PT-22 or a MW 2141. Good sounding Eb tubas, especially the Perantucci!

So far as I know the 983 is the only "modern" front action compensating Eb. There has been some discussion elsewhere on this forum assessing the advantages and disadvantages of the 983 configuration versus that of a "classic" Besson. No consensus really - it's kinda' whatever floats your boat.

I love my 983 but there are some real dogs out there. The Willsons are very nice. Never tried the new Miraphones but I hear they are spectacular. They certainly can be played relatively well by a decent player. Ahem.

Gee, ironic understatement plays almost as badly as sarcasm in this milieu.

You could also consider the M-W 2040/5 if rotary valves are in the running for you.

It is an excellent Eb which would nicely pair with your PT-6.

Here is a link for some details on the Hirsbrunner. Bore (.740) is larger than the 983 (.68something). Bell and throat are a bit smaller. I'm sure it's pricey.


http://www.tubanews.com/modules.php?nam ... nts&id=144

Neptune wrote:You could also consider the M-W 2040/5 if rotary valves are in the running for you.

It is an excellent Eb which would nicely pair with your PT-6.

I agree. Since all my playing is with small groups at the moment, the 2040/5 is the only tuba I own. However, when it comes time to buy a contrabass, I think one right around the PT6 size would be an excellent compliment.

Consider the old American Eb tubas also. I am playing a modified York, Monster Eb on which I had installed 4, front-action, .687" bore piston valves and added a fifth, thumb-operated rotory valve.

Sometimes, getting an old American horn and customizing it is a more affordable option than buying a new, handmade European tuba.

Make sure you play it before deciding. I found the MW2141 was a little awkward to hold in playing position, but got it anyway when it produced a gorgeous sound in the lower register as well as an extended high range.

Rosco wrote:I had run the idea of getting a large older Eb and getting front action valves put on it.

Why?

I have a couple of Eb top piston tubas. That configuration has some advantages, possibly some drawbacks, but I'm curious why anyone thinks front action would be worth that much trouble.

E Flat

I have the hirsbrunner. Not very big but great sound, more f than e flat. Great bottom register, focused rather than lots of decibels. sweet middle and top. Slightly cranky tuning on top g flat and b flat but can be fixed on alternate fingering with no difficulty. Well worth that bother to get the sound quality.

Bilmac

Rosco wrote:Also anyone know any place that has 1 or more of these horns that I could try out? I'm located in Columbia, SC right now but I "summer" (home when I'm not at college) in Herndon, VA (just outside Washington DC).

Thanks again

Hi Rosco,

I live near Vienna, VA, just a few miles from Herndon, and you're welcome to come over and try out an (1926-27) Eb York bellfront, 3 front piston valves, and a (1914-17) York Eb Monster, 3 upright valves. PM me and I'll provide my e-mail and cell phone. These two horns are a lot of fun, but you may desire something different for an academic setting.

Bob1062 wrote: You might find that a 3 front valve Monster/Giant/... is all you need out of a "middle horn." These guys laugh at me , but these horns can have really magnificent false tones. Pull 1 or 3 for 1+3 and 1+2+3, and you'd be set....

REPEAT- You do NOT need a 5th valve on these horns ESPECIALLY if it'll be an occasional use tuba, unless you want a easier (less slide moving) low A natural.

I agree that the false tones are really good on these tubas and they sound about as good as they would with the extra valves. I'm still glad to have five valves on my Eb though because I don't like using false tones and the fingering patterns are the same as with my 4 + 1 CC tuba. It would be good if you could try a three valve York for yourself and see if you like playing the false tones. Meanwhile you might learn a new trick or two.