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I've just stripped down the Besson Sovereign EEb for it's regular bath and clean-out. Once again there are large gray deposits that fill the bottom valve caps. The consistency of these deposits is like a silicone "rubbery" feel, so I guess it's the Hetman Classic synthetic valve oil reacting with water on the valves. The next experiment will be a trial of Roche, Super Slick or something else petroleum based to see if I get this buildup again. Trouble is, petroleum based oils seem to evaporate quickly on older, large comp piston valves, and I have tried many different brands. My enquiries to buy some pharmaceutical grade mineral oil to thicken things up a little, as suggested before on this forum have proved fruitless. Hey iiipopes, where do you buy that stuff? I've tried pharmacy stores to no avail.

I have the same experience with Hetman's but, if I let the gundge sit over night, it gets brittle and powders. I use Blue Juice to clean up. In an old horn I have, I discovered using Marvel Air Tool Oil, cut with Blue Juice to the thickest consistency that allows rapid valve movement [you have to experiment -- start at 4 (Blue Juice) to 1 (Marvel)] works pretty well. Hope this little bit of experience helps.

It really wont make any difference if you switch valve oils.
I've used home made lampoil solutions, Roche thomas, Blue juice,
And I'm currently useing Hetmans. All of them make a sort of residue like you described, so the only solution I've found is to just clean the horn about once a month and snake the slides.

Just so you know, your bottom valve caps are supposed to get dirty. That means your valve oil is working and your valves are staying clean. Oil pushes all the dirt down to the bottom caps, that is how valves stay woking the way they do. Just clean your bottom valve caps every once in a while (and of course other maitenance) and your valves should stay clean and working great.

Dennis

Thanks for your advice guys. My tech agrees with you bill. The pistons on a Besson comp EEb are over 5" long, and his theory is with that much cold metal (mid-winter in my hemisphere) going up & down (I play at least 4 hours a day) added to saliva and condensation, any oil over time will produce a residue. He thinks I could be overdoing the oil as well. I am a bit heavy-handed with the Hetman Classic,which BTW works great on the aging horn as a lubricant.

The really nice thing about all that sludge in your bottom caps is that it runs back all over your valves when you stand your horn on its bell.