Page 1 of 1
Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2004 10:38 pm
by smurphius
how hot was the water you used? also, what did you use to clean it with?
Re: gummy valves
Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2004 10:38 pm
by WoodSheddin
euphman wrote:I'll post this on the new site as well as the old one. I cleaned my Willson euph about a week ago and have very gummy valves. I use alisyn to lubricate, but it only helps for a few minutes before the sluggish state returns. Any ideas?
Sounds like there is still gunk in there that got worked loose. Maybe clean again?
Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:27 am
by Rick F
Phartinoogan wrote:Also, it helps to clean out the valve guide slot
Good suggestion. A square match stick works good for this. Won't scratch the valve casing.
Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2004 2:07 pm
by The Impaler
euphman,
I had the exact same experience years ago with my Willson and that synthetic valve oil stuff that you're only supposed to use a couple of drops on each valve. My valves worked incredibly well for a few weeks, then became so sluggish that no amount of oil (of any kind) would help. I had to re-clean all my valves and just use the regular stuff again. Never had any valve problems since then. Hope this helps.
Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 10:34 am
by CJ Krause
***
Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:46 am
by tubathig
I agree with Charlie, denatured alcohol works real well to cut the gunk off of your valve cylinders. Another thing that you might try is liquid lava soap. I have used it on my 3/4 CC before and it works quite well. The only thing is that you have to make sure that you get all of it out. I would suggest using a water hose to rinse it with. The pumice should not be too abrasive on the pistons or the cylinders and it will definitely cut the grime.
cleaning Valves
Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 4:34 pm
by Paul S
bbtubaman wrote:With Allisyn, you can never put any other oil on ur valves, not even one drop or it will get slugish and i have seen them freeze.
When I first got my Yamaha F 621, I had problems with 1 & 3 really dragging no matter how I cleaned and oiled it. Tim Olt, tuba/euph prof at BGSU and also a certified tech, took carborator cleaner and a nappy cloth through both valves, wiped them down again clean and dry and then oiled the pistons before replacing them.
They ran as smooth as silk and gunk & deposits that I could not see or remove with regular cleaning was left on the rags. This was on a silver horn that I thought should have shown the grime with as shiny as the inside appeared. It had just had a fairly recent chem cleaning too. The cleaner really did the job fast and well getting the grime that other trials missed.
It makes sense in that the carborator cleaner was made to break up residue quickly and easily in another type of piston ran mechanism without causing problems.