Re: besson compensating tuba problems
Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:35 pm
My experiences with a large stem mouthpiece, in casu the same PT-50 throughout, and British BBb tubas with narrow old style receivers have been mixed.
A band provided Besson with the 19” bell and the narrow receiver as they came through the transitional years between the old New Standard/Imperial models of pre-1979 and the Sovereign’s of post 1983 (or so), simply was erratic above the 4th partial, whereas it was magnificent below the open pedal. There might have been damages, obstructions, or leaks not detected by me, as the whole point was, that I could avoid bringing my own York Master by just taking the Besson out of the storage room. I soon refused to play that instrument and hauled the YM with me in the bus.
Since then I bought a circa 1970 Besson New Standard with the 17” bell and the narrow receiver. I had planned to play it with a DW 1. However this instrument works way better for me, when played through the exact same PT-50.
I haven’t seen or played your tuba. Still I will try to trace potential problem areas.
1st: The compensating system mentioned in the subject line hardly is the root of the problem. The valves may be leaky, but on the open notes told of, shot valves would be a problem, compensating or not.
2nd: The bell collars may be leaky, but that rather would cause problems way higher in the overtone series, not on the 3rd partial.
3rd: The mouthpiece may leak at the receiver, because the overlapping surfaces are small. But if so, your problems likely would be much worse.
4th: The water key cork may be leaky. That position in the main bugle is much more likely to be a culprit for your problem.
5th: Bell front instruments are tempting targets for some minor minds to throw at thereby causing inner obstructions. Take off the bell, position the body safely on towels or the like in an area, where spattering water will do no harm hold a hose with warm, but not overly hot, water tightly to the leadpipe receiver and flush the inside of the tuba. While you are at it, have somebody press the valves in all thinkable permutations (you need your hand to hold the hose steady, as only high speed water will help).
Take out the slides to empty the tuba. I actually blow the tuba empty before taking out the slides. Clean slides and valves. Grease and oil. Play. report to TubeNet.
Klaus Smedegaard Bjerre
A band provided Besson with the 19” bell and the narrow receiver as they came through the transitional years between the old New Standard/Imperial models of pre-1979 and the Sovereign’s of post 1983 (or so), simply was erratic above the 4th partial, whereas it was magnificent below the open pedal. There might have been damages, obstructions, or leaks not detected by me, as the whole point was, that I could avoid bringing my own York Master by just taking the Besson out of the storage room. I soon refused to play that instrument and hauled the YM with me in the bus.
Since then I bought a circa 1970 Besson New Standard with the 17” bell and the narrow receiver. I had planned to play it with a DW 1. However this instrument works way better for me, when played through the exact same PT-50.
I haven’t seen or played your tuba. Still I will try to trace potential problem areas.
1st: The compensating system mentioned in the subject line hardly is the root of the problem. The valves may be leaky, but on the open notes told of, shot valves would be a problem, compensating or not.
2nd: The bell collars may be leaky, but that rather would cause problems way higher in the overtone series, not on the 3rd partial.
3rd: The mouthpiece may leak at the receiver, because the overlapping surfaces are small. But if so, your problems likely would be much worse.
4th: The water key cork may be leaky. That position in the main bugle is much more likely to be a culprit for your problem.
5th: Bell front instruments are tempting targets for some minor minds to throw at thereby causing inner obstructions. Take off the bell, position the body safely on towels or the like in an area, where spattering water will do no harm hold a hose with warm, but not overly hot, water tightly to the leadpipe receiver and flush the inside of the tuba. While you are at it, have somebody press the valves in all thinkable permutations (you need your hand to hold the hose steady, as only high speed water will help).
Take out the slides to empty the tuba. I actually blow the tuba empty before taking out the slides. Clean slides and valves. Grease and oil. Play. report to TubeNet.
Klaus Smedegaard Bjerre
