TubeNet

I am going to purchase a small/medium CC tuba for mostly brass quintet and large brass ensemble work, with a little concert band work thrown in, sometime this year. Baltimore Brass had a very good 2415S last summer that won the family vote as the best sounding instrument of the day (My wife and 15yo son are also musicians). My only concern was the difficulty with my small hands with the large piston valves. I had limited time to work with the adjustable thumbring and was unable that day to achieve comfortable hand placement. I intend to go back and give this model another chance soon. However, I have never played a PT3 or PT4 and would really like to try one with rotors as well as the piston models and Custom Music is a long way from Central Virginia. How are they to work with as far as sending horns out for trial? Does anyone have a ballpark price for the PT CC line? I also briefly playtested a new Mirafone 1292 yesterday which my family jury liked, but did not "grab me" like I think a nearly $10,000 horn should. I thought the valves were too heavily sprung. Any and all comments/ suggestions are welcome. BTW, I currently play a Bohm & Meinl "Symphonic" 4V rotary CC w/Mike Finn 5H. Happy New Year! David S.

You can always get lighter springs for heavy feeling valves.

See if you can find an older MW2145, one with felt in the upper valve cap and not under the button. These horns used a smaller valve set than the one currently in production. The 2145s at BBC usually have some mods suggested to MW by Mr. Fedderly. These horns are very good, but if the valve block doesn't work for you it's no good. Get the Army conference at Ft. Myer at the end of the month and try horns out. Rotary valves might very well be the answer for you

jtuba wrote: Rotary valves might very well be the answer for you

Agreed. One distinct advantage of rotaries is that the spatulas can be bent around to fit directly under your fingertips. I have always done this with my rotaries, and love the fact that they are aligned with a normal, relaxed finger position. The shorter throw (vs. pistons) is an added bonus.
OTOH, I have seen some players put an extension on one side of the valve buttons on piston tubas, too, but that's much more labor intensive to do, and I'm suspect of the long-term effect of non-parallel pressure on the wear of the valves and casings.
BTW- you're going to play the horns before buying, which is what everyone probably should do, IMHO.

I agree with the prior posts. My hands are not small, but with a shorter than average pinky and with the relative curve of my fingers, I do not have a wide "spread" to them. To give you a concrete example of how this works, I also play guitar, and Gibson's 24 3/4 inch scale is much more comfortable to me than Fender's 25 1/2 inch scale, which isn't much from fret to fret, but by the time you spread out over three or four frets it can add up.

Consider a rotor instrument. Any modern rotor instrument can have the paddles taken off, adjusted and resoldered in all three axes (length, spread, and relative height) to perfectly match a person's hand ergonomics. And the thumb ring, if it has one, can be then also fit properly. I have had this done to my 186, and instead of always reaching for valves, and my right hand getting tired or sore by the end of the rehearsal or performance, I don't even think about it. I just play.

In that regard, also have the leadpipe and receiver set for height and angle to match embouchure. My receiver is angled "in" towards the bell slightly to make the overall horn angle fit my right wrist better, and the receiver is also tilted up a few degrees to take my slight overbite into account. Again, with these ergonomic adjustments, I don't ever have to think about my horn as I hold it. Just like having my tuxedo tailored with a little more shoulder room to hold the tuba and waistband allowance for a deep breath, I just play, empty water as necessary, resume playing.

Also with that in mind, I can tell you that I have used my 186 in everything from brass quintet to large ensemble, sometimes with a smaller than ideal tuba section, with great success and personal satisfaction.

If you have small hands, or suffer from any hand problems, then go for rotary valves. I did and have never regretted (with the increased reliability an added bonus).

I have recently got a PT-3, so can confirm that one would be ideal for your intended use. It has a good clear and colorful tone with a really excellent low register. But tubas are so individual specific, do try and decide for yourself.