TubeNet

The 2145 is a smallish 4/4, I am a big fan of Meiln Weston products and I'm sure it is a great playing tuba. I did play it, but I spent most of my time playing the THOR and the 6450, so I but remember much about it. I have to recommend the PT606, I really liked the way it played allot. If you are interested in a 4/4+ sized tubas, the THOR is a great tuba, and the Miraphone 1291 is a very nice tuba as well.

I agree with the 1291 - while I believe Miraphone calls it a 5/4 compact, it behaves very well in the mid/upper register (much easier to play up there than the Thor anyway), while still having a kick *** low end. I assume you are using this as an all-in-one horn, hence the 4/4 size? (though I do understand that not everyone wants a BAT)
My money is where my mouth is - my new 1291 arrives later this week... Can't wait!
Happy shopping!

I will have to respectfully disagree on the Miraphone 1291. I played one recently, and declined to buy it. I thought it was cheaply made, and sounded like it*. That "Rube Goldberg" 5th valve linkage was clearly designed after the horn was. It would be a good horn if you didn't have anything to compare it to.

* Of course, someone might argue that the horn is fine, and I sound cheaply made!

try too find a Hirsbrunner (Hb2 Hb2p, Hb21,)
They are amazing tuba

Meinl Weston 2000.

Still the best piston horn I ever played.

Yamaha 822 CC- Of the 4 or 5 horns I played, I thought OVERALL; the intonation was bad, and the sound was too 'spread', probably because of the huge bell. I think that cutting down the bell a couple inches to make it sound 'tighter'- this would involve making a slightly longer tuning slide. As well as finding a way to fix the bad intonation (usually towards the top of the staff, and down around pedal Eb) would make it a decent horn, considering this horn used to be 2-3K more than other piston CC', but now, the constant price has made it an 'ok' horn for the $$$, while other horns have jumped ALOT in the past few years. However, most yamaha horn's (TO ME) sound pretty bland; find the 'right' mpc (I have no clue which) to make the horn sound colorful.

MW2145/2155 CC's- One a small 4/4, the other a large 4/4. Both horns are usually somewhere between 'pretty good' to 'good'. They both have a nice dark sound.

MW2000 CC- If you have the $$$, go for it!

HB2P/20/21 CC- If you can get around the 'odd' notes, usually the low BBb, AA, AAb and/or GG, then you have a good horn with an excellent low range. The older HB2P's are by far the best. They used to be MUCH more expensive than 'other' 4/4 CC's, but the jump in price in 'other' CC's have made put the Hirshy 4/4's back in the running for a great horn for a good price. The intonation on these horns is usually very good, and the valves are very, very nice.

Conn 52J/54J/56J CC- Small bore and a 'wide' to 'very wide' bell give these horns lots of 'fluff' when playing loud. Intonation is ok, but the small bore means you need don't need a ton of air to get a decent sound. I've played a 56J with a trombone section, it it did not blend very well; too much 'fluff' and not enough fundamental. On the plus side, it is a very 'user friendly' horn and can pop out the really low notes easily, although it lacks the 'girth' of other horns with a larger bore and slightly smaller bells.

Mirafone 1291/1292- Use a small mpc with the 1291. If not, you'll be swimming around. On the 1292, they have a different lead pipe, which helped tremendously by 'tightening' up the horn. The intonation is usually decent on these horns, and the low register is very nice. It is a large 4/4 CC, and takes a bit more air than the other horn mentioned above. The piston valves have have one of the shortest valve strokes I've ever played (very nice plus).

Rudy Meinl 4345CC- Low register is a bit stuffy, but has a nice sound. I hesitate to say this, but it sounds/plays like a slightly cheaper version of the 4/4 Hirsbrunner CC's, except that there's no 'problem' notes. Not too many of them floating around...

PT606P CC- An even playing horn from top to bottom. It didn't 'jump out' at me, thought some people really like them.

Before you put money down, check with Sam Gnagey. His horns are really special - if you get a chance you'd be wise to try one. I don't know what his waiting list looks like these days, but with the economy as it is you might get a good slot.

lauder2 wrote:I have decided I want to buy a 4/4 CC piston tuba. Now I need to know what brand. I doubt I will have a chance to play one before buying it, so I need to get this right. What brand do you recommend? (please include supporting info/research).

Something that hasn't been mentioned... You're going to put down a good chunk of change for a tuba, right? Don't EVER buy one without trying it! Would you buy a car without a test drive? Clothes without knowing their size? You'll solicit many opinions by asking about tubas here, but unfortunately opinions are like you-know-whats (everyone's got one). Every player is different, and their tastes, styles, physical makeup, etc all vary.

I suggest you sort through some of the opinions offered here and use that as a basis for tubas to try. If you don't play a tuba before buying it, how can you be sure you'll like it? Another variable to consider is that no two models are alike. Not a single manufacturer is able to make horns with great consistency. Variances in the tubing, metal composition, and whatever other voo-doo goes into tuba building guarantee that no two horns will be alike.

When you do get to try tubas, take someone with you who is knowledgeable about tubas and has good ears. All too often, we sit behind the piece of metal tooting away thinking we sound like Gene Pokorny when in reality we're sounding just Corny (Yeah, that was a terrible pun). Spending a little extra dough to travel to a tuba superstore, or to try a used one for sale is very worthwhile, and if you make any money playing the tuba, a tax deduction.

-off my soapbox-