I've had this horn for quite a while but I'm still unconvinced about the best fingering for the low F.
4+5 is very sensitive, tendency to be very sharp. Doesn't lock very well. 1+2+4 locks much better,
but its flat. I've tried lots of different slide pulling to work out the best configuration, but I've
never been fully satisfied.
Anyone else had this sort of fiddling predicament?
4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
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David
- bugler

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4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
What one man can do another can do
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tubashaman2
- 4 valves

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Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
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Last edited by tubashaman2 on Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Miraphone 1291CC
PT 10S (Made in East Germany, GDR)
YFB 621S
PT 10S (Made in East Germany, GDR)
YFB 621S
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pierre
- bugler

- Posts: 104
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 4:20 pm
Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
I suppose by the nature of his horns they are all slightly different, but I pull the 4th slide to play the D/G in tune and then adjust the 5th to play the F 4 + 5. On my horn this puts the 4th out about a centimeter and the 5th all the way in.
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jeopardymaster
- 4 valves

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Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
Mine locks in on low F with 4-5, no problem. I played a gig with Tim Olt last night who also has one of the same (relatively early) vintage. He has some sharper angles in his tubing, especially on the 4th valve, and I have an Amato on my main tuning slide while he has a "conventional" water key on his, but otherwise the horns are virtually identical. He has expressed some concerns about his A-flats but I believe his responds the same as mine on low F.
Sam changed the receiver on mine last year, which made some marked improvements in upper range response, in exchange for a flat open e1 (above the staff). But 1-2 is just fine, and the low range is sweet as ever, so I don't mind at all.
You may want to send Sam a PM.
Sam changed the receiver on mine last year, which made some marked improvements in upper range response, in exchange for a flat open e1 (above the staff). But 1-2 is just fine, and the low range is sweet as ever, so I don't mind at all.
You may want to send Sam a PM.
Gnagey CC, VMI Neptune 4098 CC, Mirafone 184-5U CC and 56 Bb, Besson 983 EEb and euphonium, King marching baritone, Alexander 163 BBb, Conn 71H/112H bass trombone, Olds Recording tenor trombone.
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Sam Gnagey
- 4 valves

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Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
We specifically build the horn to play the low F with the 4 & 5 combination. Generally that requires leaving the 5th slide out about 2-3 inches. That makes the D-flat below the staff in tune with the 2,3 & 5 combination and the D-flat above the pedal C with 1,2,3,4 & 5. Give those a try and PM or email me if things don't work out or you'd like some advice about other fingering issues on the horn. Most people find that they need to do little if any slide manipulation while playing our horns.David wrote:I've had this horn for quite a while but I'm still unconvinced about the best fingering for the low F.
4+5 is very sensitive, tendency to be very sharp. Doesn't lock very well. 1+2+4 locks much better,
but its flat. I've tried lots of different slide pulling to work out the best configuration, but I've
never been fully satisfied.
Anyone else had this sort of fiddling predicament?
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David
- bugler

- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 7:26 pm
- Location: Canada
Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
I should have asked about this earlier. With the 5th pulled that far out, the F is great now. Still pretty tuning sensitive, but way more manageable. The 2+3+5 fingering helped a lot as well. I no longer have to have the 3rd slide pulled out so much so my pedal Eb, D and C# are also more manageable.Sam Gnagey wrote:We specifically build the horn to play the low F with the 4 & 5 combination. Generally that requires leaving the 5th slide out about 2-3 inches. That makes the D-flat below the staff in tune with the 2,3 & 5 combination and the D-flat above the pedal C with 1,2,3,4 & 5. Give those a try and PM or email me if things don't work out or you'd like some advice about other fingering issues on the horn. Most people find that they need to do little if any slide manipulation while playing our horns.David wrote:I've had this horn for quite a while but I'm still unconvinced about the best fingering for the low F.
4+5 is very sensitive, tendency to be very sharp. Doesn't lock very well. 1+2+4 locks much better,
but its flat. I've tried lots of different slide pulling to work out the best configuration, but I've
never been fully satisfied.
Anyone else had this sort of fiddling predicament?
Thanks a bunch
What one man can do another can do
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David
- bugler

- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 7:26 pm
- Location: Canada
Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
I've been using the 7B. I'll try a few others see if that helps.tubashaman2 wrote:I assume the 5th valve on these are flat whole steps, or did he make some half step 5th valve models.
Plus, how does your mouthpiece fit in the receiver. I had this problem with my 1291CC when I first got it, I was on a helleberg 7B, and I was sharp, then the PT50+ made it flat overall, what I use now (GW BAER MMVI) works perfectly
What one man can do another can do
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Mitch
- 3 valves

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- Location: Chicago
Re: 4/4 Gnagey tuba owners
I haven't had any issues with the low F on mine (rather to the contrary, actually), but mine is a 6/4 for one thing. I'm posting to echo the sentiment that I've found a Baer MMVI to be an excellent choice for my Gnageyphone.
Mitch
(Gnagey-built 6/4 BBb Martin)
Mitch
(Gnagey-built 6/4 BBb Martin)