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I just bought a new (to me) horn and my beloved Mike Finn 3H is too small to fit properly in the receiver. I already emailed Mike about a large shank replacement, but unfortunately he only produces 1 size of shank.

Soooo, I'm looking for suggestions on what to use on my MW 2165. I would like something very similar to the MF3H (33mm cup, flat-ish rim, heavy-weight, looks cool as heck, etc).

Suggestions???

TubaTodd wrote:I just bought a new (to me) horn and my beloved Mike Finn 3H is too small to fit properly in the receiver. I already emailed Mike about a large shank replacement, but unfortunately he only produces 1 size of shank.

Soooo, I'm looking for suggestions on what to use on my MW 2165. I would like something very similar to the MF3H (33mm cup, flat-ish rim, heavy-weight, looks cool as heck, etc).

Suggestions???

Short-term fix -- tape the shank on the MF3H so it fits the receiver on your 2165. Long-term -- depends on how much larger the receiver is than "standard" (if it's just a bit larger, tape should do fine; if it's a lot larger, you might want to have an adapter made).

The mouthpiece goes in almost all the way to the cup. There is probably about 1/8" of shank left. Rather than fuss with an adapter, I'm thinking of trying something new.

TubaTodd wrote:The mouthpiece goes in almost all the way to the cup. There is probably about 1/8" of shank left. Rather than fuss with an adapter, I'm thinking of trying something new.

What is the problem with the mouthpiece going in that far?

Klaus

Congrats on the new axe, Todd! Dang, You went big!!!!

If the MP shank isn't wobbling in the reciever, then why worry? If it produces a good sound, Rock on!

If it wobbles or doesn't seat solidly, then you have an issue.
Or if it has noticable sound production issues - suddenly certain partials fall off the face of the earth or are totally misbehaving.

Enjoy!!!

imperialbari wrote:

TubaTodd wrote:The mouthpiece goes in almost all the way to the cup. There is probably about 1/8" of shank left. Rather than fuss with an adapter, I'm thinking of trying something new.

What is the problem with the mouthpiece going in that far?

Klaus

Honestly....I don't know. I've just never had a mouthpiece fit like that before. I need to look at it more critically to make sure I don't have some kind of collision between the shank and the start of the leadpipe tubing.

imperialbari wrote:

TubaTodd wrote:The mouthpiece goes in almost all the way to the cup. There is probably about 1/8" of shank left. Rather than fuss with an adapter, I'm thinking of trying something new.

What is the problem with the mouthpiece going in that far?

Klaus

This is not what I truly go by, but a past instructor of mine has told me that the mouthpiece should be a "clean" fit into the receiver. His reasoning is that the mouthpiece and receiver should lock together; forming a tight bond between the two. Like I said, this is another person's opinion and logic on the matter.

Good luck with the mouthpiece search, Todd!

Joseph

So, if you really like the mouthpiece, and really like the way it plays through the horn, have you considered a receiver change?

I've entertained the idea of a receiver change. If I did that I would probably go with a Dillon AGR. Those have interchangeable receiver sizes. That may be the best option. I need to find out how much they cost.

If I am remembering and seeing correctly, because of the added mass and larger profile of the cups on Mike Finn's mouthpieces, the actual exposed shank (the "male" end) is shorter than a regular profile mouthpiece while the overall length of the piece is around the same as that of a regular profile mouthpiece. Because of this, the receiver might ride up closer to the cup than you might be used to seeing, but, in actuality, it is just fine. I had the same issue with my Marcinkiewicz Concert Hall mouthpiece and was fooled by that optical illusion for a while.

The Jackson wrote:If I am remembering and seeing correctly, because of the added mass and larger profile of the cups on Mike Finn's mouthpieces, the actual exposed shank (the "male" end) is shorter than a regular profile mouthpiece while the overall length of the piece is around the same as that of a regular profile mouthpiece. Because of this, the receiver might ride up closer to the cup than you might be used to seeing, but, in actuality, it is just fine. I had the same issue with my Marcinkiewicz Concert Hall mouthpiece and was fooled by that optical illusion for a while.

I know what you mean. It is rather like the Monnette mouthpieces with the seemingly short shank.

bloke wrote:Two relatively simple and affordable solutions:

- Send the Mike Finn 3 to Vladimir Fridman and ask him to sleeve your mouthpiece, changing your American shank to a Euro shank.

............or..............

(cheaper/simpler...??)

- Replace the Euro shank receiver on your 2165 with an American shank receiver. (A receiver from an otherwise-ruined Olds/Reynolds sousaphone gooseneck would do just fine, if nothing else is available.)

I have no reason to disagree with bloke, yet I still wonder what the original problem is, if there is no wiggling or other mechanical instabilities. Apparently there are no playing problems.

Klaus

The 2165 has a receiver the size of a greyhound bus. Swap it out. I did.

If I were you, I'd put a smaller lead pipe and a smaller receiver on it.

My tuba came with a smaller leadpipe (45SLP) with the monster receiver. I had the receiver swapped out. It plays better with the smaller receiver. I think it would play even better with a mouthpipe that starts out even smaller than the 45SLP one.

How does it *play* Todd?

After you fit the smaller receiver, and the smaller leadpipe, you might consider fitting a smaller valve cluster and then perhaps a smaller top and bottom bow and bell.

Have you considered a YBB-621?

<<Putting on my sensible cap>>

If I were my own student, I would tell myself to stick with what I know works and if it fits in the receiver then there isn't a problem. Like I said before, I've never had a mouthpiece fit this far into the leadpipe. It just looks "wrong"......whatever "wrong" may be. I guess until I have a real problem, I will hold off on anything drastic.

I like Joe's suggestion of having the Finn modified...if it truly needs it.

We have now proven that I am truly my father's son.

Some American shank mouthpieces would seat in the 2165 receiver, but most would not. They bottomed out.

FYI, Dillons sells a American to Euro shank adapter. It will not work for you. The adapter isn't long enough.

The only shanks that seem to fit that receiver and "look right" are the Dillon mouthpieces with "L" shanks.

A typical Euro shank will fit just fine, but most American shank mouthpieces just rattle around.

<Taking a deep relaxing breath....>

I HAVE MOUTHPIECE FEVER AND I CAN'T FIND MY @#$% PILLS!

TubaTodd wrote:<Taking a deep relaxing breath....>

I HAVE MOUTHPIECE FEVER AND I CAN'T FIND MY @#$% PILLS!

I recommend 2 hours of long tones.

I gotchu covered, man...

cktuba wrote:

TubaTodd wrote:<Taking a deep relaxing breath....>

I HAVE MOUTHPIECE FEVER AND I CAN'T FIND MY @#$% PILLS!

Didn't you order your KT-50 (same shank as the standard PT line)? That should do ya for a while. Nice mouthpiece... Plus you have the added benefit of freaking your fellow brass players out as they can see your chops flappin' around when you play.

Yes I ordered the KT-50. I just shipped it back to Kelly this morning for a refund. It fit "ok" in the receiver but wasn't my thing. Nothing against the KT-50. I thought it was quite amusing to be holding a crystal clear Perantucci mouthpiece in my hand, but I'll pass.

I know I am just feeding my mania......BUT....this looks interesting.

http://www.wwbw.com/Giddings---Webster- ... 30581.wwbw