venting valves on a Rudy 5/4 cc

eutubabone · Post by **eutubabone** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:40 pm

I'm thinking of having someone vent the valves on my horn. Normally, I would have Lee Stofer do it but he's in Iowa and I'm in Stone Mountain, Ga. Is there anyone close to my location that has this expertise? Mike Moore thought it might be a good idea.

Vokes

TubaTodd · Post by **TubaTodd** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 6:25 pm

Do you have a 1/4" drill bit?
Are you good with a drill press?

No matter what you just answered....DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT TRYING IT YOURSELF

Seriously, try Joe Sellmansberger (known on here as 'bloke') in Memphis, TN. He's "the man" in the south east.

Roger Lewis · Post by **Roger Lewis** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:23 am

AGREED!! - The MAN!

Joe always does great work. I would definitely look him up.

Roger

tbn.al · Post by **tbn.al** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:49 am

Rich Ita, Marietta, did my 184, and did a great job.

http://www.brassinstrumentworkshop.com/" target="_blank

Bob Kolada · Post by **Bob Kolada** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:49 am

If you can live without the horn for a while, you could remove the valves, package them securely, and ship them to someone acclaimed in such things.

Wyvern · Post by **Wyvern** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:58 am

Bob Kolada wrote:If you can live without the horn for a while, you could remove the valves, package them securely, and ship them to someone acclaimed in such things.

I thought venting was about drilling holes in the casings which are part of the tuba and cannot be removed

JCalkin · Post by **JCalkin** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:02 am

For a piston horn you would vent the actual valve directly.

For a rotary (of which the Rudy 5/4 is a fine example) you drill the casing.

eutubabone · Post by **eutubabone** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:06 am

Thank you everyone for the information. I'll check with Bloke or Rich Ita about this.
Thanks!

Bob Kolada · Post by **Bob Kolada** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:30 am

JCalkin wrote:For a piston horn you would vent the actual valve directly.

For a rotary (of which the Rudy 5/4 is a fine example) you drill the casing.

Well then....

Lee Stofer · Post by **Lee Stofer** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:55 am

If your Rudi 5/4 CC tuba is of1986 or newer vintage, it should have a 2nd valve slide trigger. The valve slides can be set to where this is the only tuning device needed, and no slide-pulling should be necessary.

If someone does vent the valves for you, such as Rich Ita, a very fine brass instrument repair tech in the Marietta, GA area, I would suggest having only very small holes drilled. Otherwise you can find yourself with a leaky first valve, particularly when the rotor bumpers wear down a little.

Please PM me about this instrument.

oedipoes · Post by **oedipoes** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:53 pm

Lee Stofer wrote:If your Rudi 5/4 CC tuba is of1986 or newer vintage, it should have a 2nd valve slide trigger. The valve slides can be set to where this is the only tuning device needed, and no slide-pulling should be necessary.

Just out of interest,
does that apply for the 4-valved Bayreuth's too?

thx

Wim

Wyvern · Post by **Wyvern** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:26 pm

oedipoes wrote:Just out of interest,
does that apply for the 4-valved Bayreuth's too?

It did on the one I tried

Lee Stofer · Post by **Lee Stofer** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:05 am

Wim,
Yes, the Bayreuth BBb has the 2nd valve slide trigger, although it has less need of one than any other Rudolf Meinl tuba. I must mention that the Bayreuth is absolutely an awesome kaiser BBb. I had the opportunity to play one for a couple of weeks this summer, and I can say that it has what is very possibly the best intonation of any tuba ever made, due to computer-aided design. And, it has a direct and easy response that rivals any large CC tuba I've ever played, too.

TubeNet

venting valves on a Rudy 5/4 cc

venting valves on a Rudy 5/4 cc

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