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A lovely ancient Büscher Eb helicon arrived (by AmTrak) yesterday. Both nice looking and a good player. Now for the details...

Without a bit, it's impossible for me to get a decent playing position. But, I had a bit
laying about, slapped it in, and all seems good to go. The question is: what's the *correct* bit (and it's one, yes? not two?) What do I measure and who sells them?

Once the bit was in, I reached for the first Eb mouthpiece at hand - a MF 4H. Later, I dug out a G&W that I've been using with my *other* antique Eb helicon. The results are about the same: with all slides pushed all the way in (the way it arrived), the notes in the staff are dead on. The Eb below the staff is a quarter tone flat (I can make the tuner say it's a flat d2# and I can make the tuner say it's a sharp d2 - but I can't get it to say its an in-tune d2# (e2b). The good news is that the 1-3 Bb below the staff is dead on perfect. So...any clues on how to deal with the FLAT Eb? Note that there's nothing to push in.

And finally...where to start in the search for the perfect mouthpiece? I wonder how a titanium bloke-piece might work?

And...where do I get a bicycle bell for it?

sloan wrote:The question is: what's the *correct* bit (and it's one, yes? not two?) What do I measure and who sells them?

The answer...whatever bit "works" for you. Let's look at this logically. If the bit/mouthpiece combination you are using is producing a result that is consistently too sharp or too flat for the majority of your range, then your combination needs to be adjusted. Try a Dennis Wick mouthpiece with your current bits.

Buescher bits are rather rare, but I do have one for an Eb (and the Eb helicon to go with it). If this is what you really need, it would be possible to make a copy of it.

What is the serial number of the instrument? If it was built prior to 1920, when A=440 was first agreed upon by most of the world as a standard, then the overall pitch of the instrument may well be low, in which case it would play better in modern pitch without a bit, or with a shorter bit. If a bit is used with an Eb, only one should be used.

And, the Eb that is low on your instrument is typical. That partial on virtually all instruments has the tendency to be at least a tiny bit flat, and the tendency is much greater on older instruments. My first Buescher, a 4-valve euphonium, was a beautiful-looking instrument with a low Bb that was very-nearly an A.

The Buescher Eb helicon is a rather small instrument, and I believe that the mouthpiece shank size is close to that of a modern bass trombone. A century ago, brass players generally used much smaller equipment than today, and an original mouthpiece would have been rather comparable to a modern Bach 2- or 3G bass trombone mouthpiece. At any rate, a shallow cup mouthpiece with the right shank size will make the instrument respond better and play better in-tune. Deep cup or funnel mouthpieces will only make matters worse.

Check out the valve compression, too. If the valves are leaky, the pitch will be less-defined.

Lee Stofer wrote:Buescher bits are rather rare, but I do have one for an Eb (and the Eb helicon to go with it). If this is what you really need, it would be possible to make a copy of it.

see PM

What is the serial number of the instrument?

871XX

...

The Buescher Eb helicon is a rather small instrument, and I believe that the mouthpiece shank size is close to that of a modern bass trombone. A century ago, brass players generally used much smaller equipment than today, and an original mouthpiece would have been rather comparable to a modern Bach 2- or 3G bass trombone mouthpiece. At any rate, a shallow cup mouthpiece with the right shank size will make the instrument respond better and play better in-tune. Deep cup or funnel mouthpieces will only make matters worse.

Here are some pictures. http://www.cis.uab.edu/sloan/Photos/Buescher/ Some show the (unknown maker) bit I just happened to have laying about, with a G&W Kronos mouthpiece. With this set-up, I can get the mpc to my face and the octave above the low Eb is just about dead on (with all slides pushed all the way in). The Eb is nearly exactly halfway between an Eb and a D - but the Bb below it (1-3) is once again dead on.

To my eye, the bit fits, but the mouthpiece could stand to be inserted a bit more deeply. Without the bit, the mouthpiece wiggles just a hair - which does not matter because I can't get the mouthpiece to a proper playing position withOUT the bit.

Check out the valve compression, too. If the valves are leaky, the pitch will be less-defined.

Valves seem just fine. This is one well-oiled machine.

If it fits in the back of my car with the 36J, I'll probably have it at Ft. Myer in January.
Now I have to check to see if it fits in the Altieri bag I purchased from you some years ago. I'm afraid the 1895(?) "Symphony" Eb peashooter helicon will have to go naked for the time being. Hmmm...perhaps I should dig out the bit I use on *that* helicon...

My Buescher Eb helicon has a single Conn bit. Works fine. The bicycle bell came from Toys 'R' Us, but it was the last metal bell I've ever seen there. It's freakin' loud, though.

The low Eb on my little King is like that. When tuned to the 3rd and 4th partial, the 5th and 2nd were flat but everything else was spot on. I can deal with a flat 5th, but a flat 2nd on a 3 banger is a no go for me. I ended up splitting the difference (though a bit sharper than 50/50). I push in for low Db and C and am slotting everything else pretty well so far. 5th now is also pretty good.

Tom Holtz wrote:My Buescher Eb helicon has a single Conn bit. Works fine. The bicycle bell came from Toys 'R' Us, but it was the last metal bell I've ever seen there. It's freakin' loud, though.

http://www.amazon.com/Kettler-Bell-Red- ... 033&sr=8-2