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I've been lurking here for a while now -- I play in a couple of community bands. I've always had old used, or borrowed, tubas to play since i'm not good enough to make my living via tuba and my salary went to raising kids, keeping the car running, the heat on, etc. At the last concert, a friend who came to listen asked me if i was actually playing because she couldn't hear any tuba. Yea, this particular group has 75-or-so members, and a good day would have 18 trumpets, 15 'bones, about the same number of F'in horns, and one tuba -- me -- on my king 1140 . I guess that would explain why no audible tuba sound came forth. I strongly considered the conn 25j that was for sale here, but i figured by the time shipping and reconditioning and selling mine was taken into account i would be into it for at least $2.5k, bigger than my budget and besides, the other two bands are much, much smaller groups.

I compromised and got a new "Schillaphone 186" which i just picked up from the shipping company today. Yea, it's nickel-plated and nice and *shiny* and in CC with a lot more buttons to keep me amused so i will have to learn new fingering but that's what makes life interesting.

My questions: Is there anything special i need to do with a new horn? I don't know, maybe "special break-in" oil or sump'in? The slides work well but most seem to be essentially grease-less. Any recommendations? I've seen the polish threads here so that part's covered. One other thing -- it's really slippery already and it's going to be eel-like after i polish it. Any ideas on how to tame that (well, short of sandpaper)?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
-Stew

If you feel that you must polish the horn, please feel free.

If it is too slippery and difficult to hold, then I suggest removing any polish residue with rubbing alcohol and a couple soft cloths.

I am a piston valve guy, so I can't help with rotor care or "break in methods"
Get some tuning slide grease for all the slides. Clean off whatever they were shipped with - using rubbing alcohol and paper towels. Inside AND outside tuning slide tubes. Then grease everything and reassemble.

If you feel anything gritty or scratchy when a slide is going in, STOP. Remove the slide and clean the tubes, grease and try again.

Hope you are heard and felt out in the house, next performance.
Good luck and enjoy your new axe!!!

toobaa wrote:I strongly considered the conn 25j that was for sale here, but i figured by the time shipping and reconditioning and selling mine was taken into account i would be into it for at least $2.5k, bigger than my budget and besides, the other two bands are much, much smaller groups.

Out of curiosity, why do you think it needed reconditioning?

toobaa wrote:....One other thing -- it's really slippery already and it's going to be eel-like after i polish it. Any ideas on how to tame that (well, short of sandpaper)? Thanks in advance for any advice. Stew

Congrats on the new horn. I am a firm advocate of using a play stand. But... if you want to hold the horn on your lap, a piece of shelf liner will make the horn stay put.

Stew, here's my method for breaking in any new rotary tuba.

First, you'll need a few things:
1) a location where you can rinse your horn out
2) valve oil, such as Blue Juice
3) slide grease that is sticky enough not to run into your valves, such as Schilke anhydrous lanolin
4) rotor spindle/bearing oil with a needle applicator
5) a plastic flute swab

After I've got these items, I start by pulling out all the slides and washing them off with dish soap, to remove any residue. Dry.
Then I use the plastic flute swab (wrapped with a clean, lint-free cloth, of course) to swab out the outer slides and remove residue.
Next, flush water down your leadpipe into the valves. While this is going on, move the valves to remove grit, etc. Keep going until valves move smoothly with no grit. Dry the tuba.
Grease the slides, but don't use too much . . . just enough to put a very thin coating on the slide. Put them back into the outer tubes and work them in. Repeat the washing, swabbing and greasing if necessary.
Put a good amount of valve oil down the leadpipe and turn the horn if necessary to get it into the valves, pressing and releasing the valves until each is lubricated (some feel this is not necessary, but I've done it for years).
Put a drop of rotor bearing/spindle oil on the stems and spindles of each valve. Now pull the slide out so that the vacuum will pull the oil onto the spindle and bearing. Push the valve now, you should hear a nice "pop" of compression. Repeat the pulling and popping as necessary.
At this point, your tuba should be about as good as it gets. Good luck!

Roger Lewis recommends sewing machine oil for the spindle bearings and filling up the little "well" in the bottom rotor covers, and 3-N-1 oil for the linkages. Your preference on slide grease, although I prefer UltraPure Light for riding throttle on #1 and Zaja regular for the slides that are usually set, like the main tuning slide. Occasionally I put a little RocheThomas valve oil down on a rotor through a slide to clear some gunk.

@Bob K - Sorry, perhaps "reconditioning" was not the right word. There are numerous dents, not necessarily marring the sound, but it would look so much nicer without them and some are in difficult places. Plus, i don't know what else besides dents needed to be done. It was my mental estimation of the amount i might need to spend to make it "right" in my eyes. As i said, i strongly considered it.

@DavidK - Thanks, yea, i'm looking forward to it.

@TubaTinker - I've seen the recent thread discussing just that subject. Something i'm digesting...

@Staravoski - If i found a funeral gig, would that hold my speed down enough? Good idea on the small patch first.

@ iiipopes and jonesbrass - I can do that. Thanks both of you. Time to head to the net for supplies.