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ok. so i have my new Conn 52j and i love the satin silver finish. It came with an mts style Conn rolling case with the bell pointing to the ground. When i put the horn in the case no matter how much i empty the slides and spin the horn, water leaks out of the lead pipe (which is now upside down) and onto the out side of the bell. I see a lot of tubas with the water stained bell look. I don't like the look of it on my horn and i don't want the oils/greases mixed with the water to damage the finish. So for now i have a used polishing cloth that i roll up and stick a little way down the lead pipe (not far, probably not even an inch) to absorb any water that comes down while in the case. now to the question. is this a good idea? will the chemicals in the cloth damage the lead pipe or is it ok?

I have the same problem with my Willson. Every time I tip the horn over to rest on the bell, or get it out of the case, I always have to wipe a good amount of water off. I never thought about sticking a cloth up the leadpipe though. I'll try that

TUbajohn20J wrote:I have the same problem with my Willson. Every time I tip the horn over to rest on the bell, or get it out of the case, I always have to wipe a good amount of water off. I never thought about sticking a cloth up the leadpipe though. I'll try that

I wonder if one of those thingies that clarinet players stuff in their mouthpieces after playing would fit.

i have the same problem with my PT-606p. ill have to try that flannel thing

ok. thanks. The polishing cloth was an old not so good one laying in my case and i had just gotten a new good one so i thought what better use. And yes i have tried the spin and emptying the slides but it never seems to help. i think the water is at the very end of the pipe and it won't come out with out serious time or a bath. (neither of which i usually have time for right after i get done practicing) but thanks for the suggestion.

I used to roll up a piece of paper towel and stick it into the receiver to prevent drool. It absorbs well, and is disposable. But eventually I noticed that it seems to speed up the growth of black sludge inside the leadpipe. I think that the insert prevented the inside from drying out completely, and the retained moisture was heaven for mold spores. (It may also increase the corrosion rate.)

I have concluded that the best solution is to avoid owning a very shiny new tuba.

andrew the tuba player wrote:ok. thanks. The polishing cloth was an old not so good one laying in my case and i had just gotten a new good one so i thought what better use. And yes i have tried the spin and emptying the slides but it never seems to help. i think the water is at the very end of the pipe and it won't come out with out serious time or a bath. (neither of which i usually have time for right after i get done practicing) but thanks for the suggestion.

I'm still trying to figure out how giving a tuba a bath helps get rid of water. Anyone?

Todd S. Malicoate wrote: I'm still trying to figure out how giving a tuba a bath helps get rid of water. Anyone?

Todd S. Malicoate wrote:

andrew the tuba player wrote:ok. thanks. The polishing cloth was an old not so good one laying in my case and i had just gotten a new good one so i thought what better use. And yes i have tried the spin and emptying the slides but it never seems to help. i think the water is at the very end of the pipe and it won't come out with out serious time or a bath. (neither of which i usually have time for right after i get done practicing) but thanks for the suggestion.

I'm still trying to figure out how giving a tuba a bath helps get rid of water. Anyone?

If this is a serious question....

Keeping the inside of a horn clean and free of debris and sludge will make for slicker inside surfaces from where water will drain and dry much quicker. I figured that answer is logical.

TubaTinker wrote:Keeping the inside of a horn clean and free of debris and sludge will make for slicker inside surfaces from where water will drain and dry much quicker. I figured that answer is logical.

I suppose, Dan. I'm pretty sure that's not what he was getting at, though. He implied that he would have to spend serious time or give it a bath every time he quit playing. He clearly meant giving it a bath would get the "stuck" water out...with more water. Weird. Is the bath really necessary or just taking it apart as much as possible in preparation for a bath the secret?

"Logic is a little tweeting bird, chirping in a meadow. Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers which smell bad. Are you sure your circuits are registering correctly? Your ears are green!"

What i was saying is that when i bathe it spend considerable time getting the water out of every piece of tubing and that when I'm done i towel off the entire horn and polish it so that the marks are gone. all off which takes a lot of time.

....wait....tuba players? talking about logic??? what's next? a percussionist doing math???

The drool is condensation.
The water vapor from your breath is still airborne inside the tubing when you put your horn away. Spinning won't relieve this issue. The vapor hasn't settled on the tubing inside walls and that is where the drool comes from. Once it settles....drool away!

Preventing spores or other interior blackness from accumulating. Rubbing alcohol!
A swab of rubbing alcohol blown, pushed or pulled through the lead pipe will help sterilize that tube. Remove the 1st valve and spring and blow a small wad of alcohol soaked paper towel down the lead pipe and shake it out of the first valve cylinder. You can follow with a dry wad and blow it through or push it through with a cleaning snake. then a quick wipe of the first cylinder and lube and replace the spring and piston. You should be good to go for next time.

You can also pour a little rubbing alcohol through the mouthpiece as a funnel and blow it through the entire horn as a disinfectant. Possible issues with this approach... the liquid could dislodge and carry any dust, accumulated deposits or other stuff lurking inside even the cleanest of horns - carrying that into the valves and causing valve issues. Rubbing Alcohol will not effect silver plating or lacquer. If you hose or flood your horn, then you may also cause piston felt/cork issues.

Most importantly? Watch out for rubbing alcohol drool. Smells like Vodka, tastes otherwise...

Find what works for you. Have fun !!!

DavidK wrote:The drool is condensation. ....

Yup. And it will be in vapor form until the horn cools and the vapor condenses into water on the inside walls of the horn. I can 'spin' my Marzan 'slant-rotor' and pull all of the slides. ... and when I take the horn out of the bag the next day, there is water in the main tuning slide.

DavidK wrote: You can also pour a little rubbing alcohol through the mouthpiece as a funnel and blow it through the entire horn as a disinfectant. Possible issues with this approach... the liquid could dislodge and carry any dust, accumulated deposits or other stuff lurking inside even the cleanest of horns - carrying that into the valves and causing valve issues.

When i bathe my horn i always take the valves separate from the body. I put them in heavy cups that won't fall and are only used for this and fill them with soapy water up to the very top of the valve it's self so as to not get the pads and corks wet. I do this because i don't want my pads getting wet and so my valves aren't rolling around in the tub or falling over when the door shuts. So, if you were to take the horn before disassembly and run rubbing alcohol thorough it and let it sit a minute, flush it thoroughly and then take it all down and continue normal bathing procedure would this help get it cleaner?