I picked up my Ebay helicon from Greyhound. Turns out it's a Bb horn rather than F. I'll post pictures when it's more presentable. Greyhound did no damage to it and it's relatively intact aside from all the solder having deteriorated. Lots of work needed on this old girl.
Two things that present themselves immediately that I'm not sure how to deal with:
It has a nickel kranz, but over the years the kranz has separated from dented sections of the bell. How does one fix that? Do I need to remove the kranz before burnishing out the bell or do I burnish it with the kranz in place? I don't want to deform or crack the kranz and I know old nickel can get very brittle. Also, how is the kranz re-attached once the bell is back in shape?
The tubing that comes off of the neckpipe receiver is very elaborately curved (and tapered), and the horn has been dropped on the neckpipe receiver, so there's a badly ovaled section in this curved tubing. I don't want to go at it with dent balls since I'm certain it's brittle. Is it a good idea to anneal the brass on something this old reduce the chance that it will crack, or will that just further weaken the tubing?
Thanks
Repair questions for ancient helicon with brittle brass
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cheburashka
- bugler
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 12:40 pm
- Location: Moses Lake, WA
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tubamirum
- bugler
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:59 pm
- Location: Ma U S A
Re: Repair questions for ancient helicon with brittle brass
What is a kranz? Is that what is usually known as a garland? If so, it depends on the severity if the dents. Post a picture if possible.
it was fun playing with some of you guys
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cheburashka
- bugler
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 12:40 pm
- Location: Moses Lake, WA
Re: Repair questions for ancient helicon with brittle brass
Thanks. I appreciate your responses.
The kranz (garland) wasn't as bad as it looked and I was able to smooth out the wrinkles with a big burnisher. The tube was another story. It already had one patch and by the time it was done it needed three. I used full circumference bands, since the tubing was already weak and it's a very vulnerable spot. It's not pretty, but I plan to play the horn, not look at it.
No pics yet. I'm having too much fun with the repairs. I wish I had the original neck, since the socket it fits into is in a very awkward place and I have no idea how to get the mouthpiece in the right place. That's on hold anyway, since I have to find and fix the air leaks (like the huge flanged exit port on the third valve which is separated from the valve body) before I can figure out how long the neck is supposed to be to get it into tune.
I'm liking the design of the horn a lot. Tuning slide is located after the valve body and the bore through the valves is .700. Overall craftsmanship is good. I've eager to find out how it plays.
The kranz (garland) wasn't as bad as it looked and I was able to smooth out the wrinkles with a big burnisher. The tube was another story. It already had one patch and by the time it was done it needed three. I used full circumference bands, since the tubing was already weak and it's a very vulnerable spot. It's not pretty, but I plan to play the horn, not look at it.
No pics yet. I'm having too much fun with the repairs. I wish I had the original neck, since the socket it fits into is in a very awkward place and I have no idea how to get the mouthpiece in the right place. That's on hold anyway, since I have to find and fix the air leaks (like the huge flanged exit port on the third valve which is separated from the valve body) before I can figure out how long the neck is supposed to be to get it into tune.
I'm liking the design of the horn a lot. Tuning slide is located after the valve body and the bore through the valves is .700. Overall craftsmanship is good. I've eager to find out how it plays.