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You can use synthetics on rotors. Hetmans makes some that are good. Most importantly, make sure on rotors that the oil you use is a bit thicker or else the rotor won't feel/work right.

I have been happy using Blue Juice for quite a few years. I put a few shots down the leadpipe, then tilt the tuba back and forth while working the valves.

Allen

3-in-1 works well for me on the rotary valves of my Miraphone 186, on the rare occasion I need a lubricant. (It would appear that Paulaner lager and jaegerschnitzel have forestalled the need for more direct lubrication.)

Roger Lewis recommends sewing machine oil for the spindle bearings and 3-N-1 oil for the rotor linkage.

Optimally, five lubricants are needed: a thicker slide grease for the slides that are pulled and set, like the main -- I like Zaja, but you will find preferences for everything from Vasoline to pure anhydrous lanolin; a lighter slide grease for "riding throttle" on #1 -- I like Ultrapure light; the above mentioned sewing machine oil for the spindle bearings -- a 4-oz bottle of Singer brand is only @$2 at Wallyworld; the above-mentioned 3-N-1 oil for the linkage, which is inexpensive at every hardware store; and finally, a bottle of valve oil to occasionally drip directly onto a rotor down a tube if it has dried out or a little gunk needs flushing -- I prefer Roche-Thomas, a lot of guys use Al Cass, etc.

When I got my PT-10P, I decided to forsake Al Cass (which I'd been using for years on my other horns) and use a synthetic. At first it was great - smooth as silk. Then after a few days my valves started sticking. More oil, more sticking. Then I noticed that when I pulled out the pistons there was this white, gummy stuff all over them.

I took it to my instrument tech and he started laughing. As he set up a time for me to bring it in for a flush, he said that certain people have certain chemicals in their saliva that react with the synthetic and basically create little beads of plastic - apparently white plastic.

When I got the horn back, it was put on a strict diet of Al Cass. Been working fine for four years.

If you're going to thicken up valve oil, the most compatible oil to do that with is pharmacy grade mineral oil: add a drop at a time to an ounce of oil to get to your required viscosity. I've done that on instruments with worn valves to great success. If it gets a little thick, just dilute it back down with a little more of the same valve oil base.

Slamson wrote:At first it was great - smooth as silk. Then after a few days my valves started sticking. More oil, more sticking. Then I noticed that when I pulled out the pistons there was this white, gummy stuff all over them.

I took it to my instrument tech and he started laughing. As he set up a time for me to bring it in for a flush, he said that certain people have certain chemicals in their saliva that react with the synthetic and basically create little beads of plastic - apparently white plastic.

After I read this thread, I switched my oil from the certain brand name synthetic to Blue Juice. I was doing the same thing---more problem, more oil, but it was not helping. After a week or so after the switch, the years of sticky rotor problems were gone.

Thank you guys for your help.