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I think it's one of those things that can make some difference on some horns, and not much difference on others. Just 1 more design option to consider for the manufacturers...

I don't think it makes much difference. There are so many factors in the final sound quality. Most of these have to do with overall construction. Some factors also include the players aptitude and mouthpiece. In another post bloke very wisely said "play more, think less."

Also for what it's worth Arnold Jacobs used to say (and I am paraphrasing) "You have the horn in your hands and the horn in your head."

There are so many factors in ones overall sound quality, its kind of funny how many of them could be psychological...

I have found that when removing the pipe from the bell, removing the carry strap ring and thumb ring from the bell, made the bell vibrate more and the instrument semed to have more 'life.' The effect on the sound, dunno, but I like the way the tuba FELT after allowing the bell to vibrate more freely.

The best way is to do it and see what it does to your horn. If you don't like the result , put it back the way it was.

Pauvog, what make and model of horn are you considering moving the leadpipe on? This might not be such an easy task on certain models.

I agree with some of the other posters.... I had my leadpipe taken off and adjusted mainly for ergonomics on my Gronitz PCM (an odd angled leadpipe, at least for me). Raising the leadpipe from the bell wasn't even on my radar, but in order to change the angle of the pipe (without bending or manipulation of the factory leadpipe itself) they added a few brass "rods" to make up the new distance to the bell... it reduced the contact to the bell by about 50% from the original soldering. I saw a fairly dramatic difference in the ring/vibration of the bell (much to my surprise). Some notes actually continue to vibrate after i play them...much like the sound decaying on a chime when struck (only much softer). All I know is, it didn't to it prior to the work.

BTW, the work was done by Heritage Music in Kansas City, they did a great job!

It all depends on where the nodes and antinodes tend to fall. With different tubas having different wraps, and therefore different bell heights, this explains why it works on some and not on others. If the soldering falls on an antinode, it will tend to deaden the antinode and the response.

I have had numerous horns modified in many different ways and also, have owned a number of cut and redesigned instruments. Several of these have had lead pipes taken off of the bell as well. I, too, studied with Don Butterfield, he always said that his main reason for having the lead pipe moved was for vision, not resonance. He said that he had found a dramatic difference in his vision from left to right eye, and attributed it to long hours with one eye behind the horn. It certainly doesn't hurt to see better while playing, so I had ascribed to this theory for many years.

As I grew older and my playing style changed, I began to find that tubas with the lead pipe off of the bell would vibrate so much that I'd get too much vibration coming back at me through the mouthpiece. This caused me alot of problems, so I've had to resort to adding corks or braces on horns that have had this done.

So, I think it depends alot upon how you play. If you play with alot of vibration in your buzz, I think that you will want more stability in the leadpipe. If you play with a more diffused buzz, than this may not be an issue and you may enjoy the palpable vibrations emanating from the horn. Don played with a much more diffused sound, probably due to many years of studio playing. If you've ever heard some of his recordings, you'll know what I mean. Check out his opening solo, Blues in the Night on Maynard Ferguson's Screamin' Blues. He sounds great!

For what it's worth, my two cents!
Frank Ortega

it made a huge difference on my Boosey and Hawkes Eb. The original leadpipe was actaully soldered against the bell for a good 6 inches or more. I had a 981 leadpipe mounted off the bell. There are notes now that I can feel the bell vibrate in my hands. I also took off one of the bell braces, all as per Don Butterfield's modifications.

don't know if you can see the spot where the original leadpipe was and the newer 981 pipe is now, it is a darker area above the new leadpipe.



On the other hand, I mounted a stewart stand to the bottom bow and at the bottom of the bell which did not seen to have a negative effect on the response. I did not take off the strap rings figuring the are not attached to anything so they should not effect the respose too much. Also I figured i would never know when I might want to use them.

k