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LukeDM wrote:Hey everybody. I'm new to this forum. Just got a used Mirafone 186 tuba. Older model. So far I've been loving it! She plays beautifully. I was wondering if any of you guys knew where I could get some springs for the keys to the rotary valves. As the tuba's aged, the springs have broken off, and you can see where the owner before me just resolved to unwrap a bit of the spring and bend it down under the brace. The first valve spring broke and I had to swallow my pride and take the same temporary fix that the previous owner did. So is there any good low priced tuba part distributor around that I should know of?
Thank you very much.
Lukas

Yeah... that's a pretty common fix. The problem is that removing wraps will increase the tension and shorten the life of the spring. Any repairman should either be stocking springs or have the ability to order them for you. Not terribly expensive.... perhaps $5 each retail.

LukeDM wrote:Thank you. Any website you would recommend ordering from? Not too many repair shops out here where I'm located.

I was about to ask where you are located. If you want to put the springs on yourself... send me an email at danschultz@wowway.com" target="_blank

Hello ! I need a new set too .

Bessontubaplayer wrote:Hello ! I need a new set too .

I'm going to order some stuff in the morning. How many of your need Miraphone rotor springs? $5 each plus postage. Send me an email. No need to clutter up The Board.

Grooving for Heaven wrote:can springs be ordered in different strengths? I don't know new springs, and they take forever to break in

Miraphone rotor springs are pretty well standard within whatever their manufacturing tolerances are..... with the same number of turns, the same diameter wire, wound on the same diameter mandrel, and with the same length 'tails'. I'm not aware of there being different 'strengths' but I've been wrong before.

There's no 'break-in' on a spring. It is what it is right out of the box.

Grooving for Heaven wrote:well my springs on my piggy are light and easy, and the new springs on my 601 are too freaking hard.

either the piggy springs have gotten soft in the last 25 years, or at one point they were softer from the factory

It's magic. http://www.spring-makers-resource.net/s ... esign.html

I'm not trying to be a smart-*** here but after spending over 30 years in manufacturing design, I've seen my fair share of nightmares involving spring design successes and failures.

In short... there a zillion characteristics that can change how a spring performs. The first thing I would compare on those two horns is the ratio of the levers and the condition of all the moving parts.

Grooving for Heaven wrote:the levers are identical. the valve section is exactly the same. the only thing that is different is the age and makes of the springs. the piggy still has its original springs, and the 601 has them changed recently (before I bought it)

I guess I could swap the springs, but I'd rather just find some new springs that are a little lighter than the ones I have now.

When the springs in your 601 were replaced... perhaps something other than Cerveny springs were used. Measure the diameter of the wire. Check the fit of the springs over the tubes on the lever arms to make sure they aren't dragging. There are loads of things that can be making a difference.

You might give the parts/repair guy at The Tuba Exchange a call and ask if the springs have been changed between the two horns. ???

Grooving for Heaven wrote:.... that was kind of the point of my original question, to see if there was a certain brand of springs that was lighter than others, and no, I don't know what brand springs the 601 has, but I might be able to find out.

Although it's not very often I find a need to replace rotary springs... when I do, I always try to use original springs. If I can't... there are a few things to look out for. 1) binding of the inside of the coils against the lever tubes. (if the diameter is too small it will bind when the spring is tensioned. If it's too loose, the spring won't be properly supported and portions of the spring could rub). 2) too many wraps on the spring causing binding between the tabs on the lever bar. 3) use a spring with the same length of wire that extends under the paddle. (this will cause the action to be harder (shorter) or softer (longer)). 4) use a spring with the same diameter of wire and number of turns.

You could experiment with different wire diameters and wind your own springs. I've done it but it's hardly worth the time and energy it takes to build a jig to do it.

The guys at The Tuba Exchange should be able to guide you as to what spring to use.