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I own a YEB-381 -- a 5v version of the 321, but identical except for the added 5th valve.

When I receive my tuba, there was a problem with the 1st valve sticking. However, a competent repairman noticed subtle clues that the tuba had been seriously damaged in the past, and ALMOST restored to original condition. The remaining problem for my horn was simply that the valve cluster had been moved slightly out of proper alignment, and the leadpipe was exerting some sort of force on the 1st valve casing that affected the piston travel. After some skillful nudging, the problem has been corrected. (It's not the "nudging", it's knowing WHERE to nudge that's important!)

I provide this background to explain that there are occasional reasons why a certain model horn might develop a bad reputation. If I hadn't taken my horn in for repair with an experienced repairman, this problem would never have been found. And I would have always thought my horn had a sticky first valve.

My valves are now fine. I know of another pro player who uses a YEB-381 also, and he has never experienced sticky valve problems.

My conclusion is that the valves should be fine if properly maintained and not damaged. This is my "vote". You should wait to see what others post here also.

Regarding the Cerveny, I tried one of these once and was very disappointed with the lower register response. The Cerveny Eb has tendencies that are similar to smaller F tubas, except that they start a whole step lower -- around the low BBb note.

The smaller Yamaha tubas (YFB-621, YEB-321) are EXCELLENT with their low register response. You will notice a significant difference if you switch from the Cerveny to a Yamaha-321 Eb. If I played a larger Eb tuba as my primary tuba (the Willson 3400 would be a good choice, but expensive), then I might consider buying one of the Cerveny Eb tubas for a "smaller" Eb sound -- for solos and other upper register playing. I believe Jay Bertolet (a pro tubist from Florida) has done just this exact thing. So the Cerveny Eb tuba does have certain strengths. It's just not my recommendation for a "general purpose" tuba, as I find it very difficult to manage below the low BBb note (two ledger lines below the staff).

Regards,

I have no real experience with the YEB-321, but have had a YCB-621 for about 15 years (infact the serial number -10008 indicates it to be a very early one). I had a problem with the the 1st, and to a lesser degree, the 2nd valve, sticking intermittently when I first got the horn.

One of the problems with Yamaha, is that their tubas are built too well! The machining is so accurate, that there is very little space between the valve, and the casing. Consequently, any lateral movement of the valve can cause a hang up.

I figured to wait a while, and see if the valve broke in. At the time I was using Al Cass valve oil, but at the recommendation of a trumpet colleague, I switched to Hetman light oil, and Viola! Problem gone!

One man's experience....

Don't get me wrong --- Al Cass is great, but it IS thin, which doesn't work for SOME tubas.

On "sticky" valves:
an alto horn player in the brass band was having a problem with her 1st valve sticking (besson horn.) She sent it off and paid big bucks to get it fixed, and it was not much different than before. Then we told her that with piston instruments (she is mainly a french horn player) that if you don't push the valve down perfectly straight, it will appear to stick. The next day she said her "sticky" valve problem was completely gone.
MA

There are several mechanical problems that can cause any brand of piston valves to stick. The Yamahas seem to be a little more sensitive because the piston/casing tolerances are so close that even a piece of lint can cause sticking. The best defense is to keep the valves clean.

I bought my second 321 new. The valves had to be lapped and vented. I like it a lot more than the Meinl I got rid of. I got tired of people telling me what a good horn was, when it wasn't good for me. Do not assume that an old horn is a representation of what is coming off the line new today. In that there is good and bad.

I have a three oil system works for me, and can bring back to life older, neglected valves. It is a modification of an oil system Alan Baer taught me many years ago in Long Beach.

Go to your local automotive store and buy the Z-Max engine system. This usually comes in a paclage with transmission fluid and gas treatment as well. Carefully pour either Z-Max oil treatment or if you can find it Z-Max small engine formula. Also buy a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil. It is colored red. The Z-Max is sythetically formulated to soak into the metal of the pistons, giving them long term protection, and the Mystery Oil works as a deep detergent.

Pour both oils into an empty valve oil container and label them with a sharpie marker. Do this carefully! This stuff can be toxic.

First clean the valves with soap and warm water. Use only 100% cotton.

Pour the Z-Max all over the valves and return them to the horn. Work the valves quickly for a minute or so and then play the horn for another ten or fifteen minutes, being careful not to inhale any air from the inside of the tuba. Let the horn sit overnight.

The next day, treat the horn in the same manner using Marvel Mystery Oil. Work them in for a while and then play the horn for ten or fifteen minutes. The valves will get sludgey and slow but keep playing for a while. It is a good finger workout. Do this for as long as possible, again leaving the horn overnight if you can.

When you can't take the sludge anymore and just have to see the fast results of the project, all you have to do is add your normal thin oil. I use Al Cass. It normally takes two applications before the valve reach full speed, but I think you will be happy with the results.

Good luck.

-DK

One more thing.

I do the full treatment with the Z-Max every 3 or 4 months, but I keep the Marvel oil and Al Cass oil with me wherever I go. I use the Marvel on the valves in the same way as above about once a week, and the Al Cass every day when I first pick up the horn.

This should keep the valves clean, smooth, and protected as long as one might live.