TubeNet

Has any one really had any experience with these yet?

I mean no insult to the original poster or anyone who has a 6 valve F Tuba, but why?

I completely understand a 4 valve horn and I also understand a 5 valve CC or F, but 6? What is the point? Extra valves don't necessarily make an instrument better.

This is sort of a sore spot for me. I read all of the time about people wanting to add valves to Tubas that probably aren't going to be any good. It is neat for the experience, but such a thing won't make a bad Tuba play well, nor will it add value to a horn or make you a better player.

...(says the guy who just built a 4 valve 36K cluster)

PS - I apologize if I accidentally derailed this thread.

BRSousa wrote:I mean no insult to the original poster or anyone who has a 6 valve F Tuba, but why?

I completely understand a 4 valve horn and I also understand a 5 valve CC or F, but 6? What is the point?

The same reason why Besson used to put that annoying ball at the bottom of its tubas.

HI-
This should help:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42339" target="_blank

BTW, I played mine on a quintet recital this evening--great instrument. I am having some mods done to it, and when it is finally finished, I will post with pics--I think you'll like...
mark

BRSousa wrote:I mean no insult to the original poster or anyone who has a 6 valve F Tuba, but why?
I completely understand a 4 valve horn and I also understand a 5 valve CC or F, but 6? What is the point? Extra valves don't necessarily make an instrument better.
This is sort of a sore spot for me. I read all of the time about people wanting to add valves to Tubas that probably aren't going to be any good. It is neat for the experience, but such a thing won't make a bad Tuba play well, nor will it add value to a horn or make you a better player.

Assuming you're actually serious...
It's to make playing in the low range more of a point and shoot affair instead of putzing around with slide pulls or using sub-optimal fingerings. Also, 6 valves can get you somewhere in the neighborhood of playing the open pedal note as a valved note. If you're innovative and your horn has less than optimal intonation, you can use the additional valves for different fingerings. Like 6 instead of 1 if you have a flat 5th partial.

The Jin Bao, while a heavy little sucker, really rocks. Very nice low range, easy playability, great sound,... I want one!

Bob

We Have the new F Tubas in stock, give me a call

M&M
Michael

The 6th valve gives the player numerous options in the low register.

Using it to play the sustained low f in Mahler's 1st symphony would allow the performer to give the note a softer color than the more "wide open" feel of a 5 valve horn.

Disclosure: I've only owned 5 valve f tubas, but I think that 6th valve would come in pretty handy at times.

If you don't see a need for a sixth valve on an F tuba, then just move on--nothing to see here.

Suffice to say, others do, and not just the "blokes" who are given to buying stuff just to spend money.

I wouldn't buy a bad F tuba just get a sixth valve, but that isn't the choice.

I played the Jin-Bao-made M&M 6-valve F at the Army Conference, and I thought it played quite nicely. The response was pretty even, and the low register was solid. I would have to evaluate it in a place more quiet than an Elephant Room to form a real opinion as to sound, but it was certainly a competent F tuba for the money. But have a look at the F octave--on that one, it was rather open, and I suspect the upper F was pretty sharp.

The fifth and sixth valve arrangement is opposite the B&S, and like the Meinl-Weston.

If I had to have a shiny F tuba in a hurry for less than three grand, I suspect this one would get the job done, and that is saying a lot. Would I rather have it than, say, a used classic B&S or Yamaha 621 for a few hundred dollars more? Well, no.

Rick "whose opinion of the Jin-Bao would be the same if it had only five valves" Denney

Actually, if youre paying more than 2000 youre paying much more than you could.