I have a St. Petersburg 202N that is a great playing horn but the linkage is a pain in the butt. I have no idea if there is any way of fixing this or what the cost of doing something like this would be. It seems like the rotors do not move quickly and tend to get stuck. I think St. Petersburg has redone their linkage now but I do believe that my horn has the original design. Any thoughts or idea of what I can do about this? If the linkage were to be redone how much would something like this cost? I would appreciate any help! Thanks everyone.
Until US imports were made exclusive St. P’s came from at least two sources. One of these selling them with two variants of linkages. You will get the best advice, if you provide photos for this thread. Photos in jpg or png up to 256K may be attached, max 3 per posting.
The safe solution going for all variants of linkages is about ALL moving parts being clean and well lubricated. But photos will help towards more specific tips.
Klaus, who uses Blue Juice for all moving parts - thin & penetrant, only it takes more frequent oiling due to evaporation
imperialbari wrote:Until US imports were made exclusive St. P’s came from at least two sources. One of these selling them with two variants of linkages. You will get the best advice, if you provide photos for this thread. Photos in jpg or png up to 256K may be attached, max 3 per posting.
The safe solution going for all variants of linkages is about ALL moving parts being clean and well lubricated. But photos will help towards more specific tips.
Klaus, who uses Blue Juice for all moving parts - thin & penetrant, only it takes more frequent oiling due to evaporation
Thanks a ton! I will try to get some pics up asap! The linkage is just like the one on the horn on this post... viewtopic.php?f=4&t=43224&start=0" target="_blank
Not sure if that helps, but I will try to get some pics up of my own. Thanks again!
Visit the the website of The Tuba Exchange. They stock parts for both the 201N and 202N tubas. Those horns are virtually the same except for the linkage a brace between the leadpipe and bell. They have parts list on their website. If you have trouble figuring out what you need, just give them a call.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker" http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
TubaTinker wrote:Visit the the website of The Tuba Exchange. They stock parts for both the 201N and 202N tubas. Those horns are virtually the same except for the linkage a brace between the leadpipe and bell. They have parts list on their website. If you have trouble figuring out what you need, just give them a call.
That linkage looks different than what I have and looks like the "newer" style I mentioned earlier. I have no clue if its newer or better or not but I do know what I have now is not cutting it. Do you think it'd be an easy switch to this new linkage and do you think it'd fit the horn?
Aaron, I am no tech and my tech English is limited, but I live far from a repairman and try to make thinks going on my own. With this disclaimer done:
The resolution of the pictures linked to is not the very highest. Yet it looks like there is a ball & socket link between the crank and the push rod coming from the lever arm. If so there is an adjustment screw at the end of the socket. This was a high tech solution 30 years ago for the instrument makers in the Warsaw Pact countries. Those made in the GDR were really good. Some of the other countries used lesser alloys. The screw can be tightened to make up for wear.
My suspicion goes towards one or more of these links. If they get dry, get dirty, or develop a grate they may bind. The problem about taking out the adjustment screw is that it is very easily lost. I usually work with these matters while sitting on the floor. Place the tuba on a white sheet which makes it much easier finding dropped parts.
Work on one socket at a time. Loosen the screw in very small increments and test whether the valve action binds. If the action improves you have found at least one of the culprits for the binding. You may go cheap and squeeze some oil into the socket and tighten the screw exactly some much that it doesn’t bind (if it is too loose, you will hear clicking sounds).
You may take out the screw and clean it as well as the socket, but be very careful about not loosing the screw.
I assume you have oiled the rotor bearings, the links between the push rods and the lever arms, and the axis where the paddle bearings sit. If your problems persist, there are other potential culprits to be discussed.
imperialbari wrote:Aaron, I am no tech and my tech English is limited, but I live far from a repairman and try to make thinks going on my own. With this disclaimer done:
The resolution of the pictures linked to is not the very highest. Yet it looks like there is a ball & socket link between the crank and the push rod coming from the lever arm. If so there is an adjustment screw at the end of the socket. This was a high tech solution 30 years ago for the instrument makers in the Warsaw Pact countries. Those made in the GDR were really good. Some of the other countries used lesser alloys. The screw can be tightened to make up for wear.
My suspicion goes towards one or more of these links. If they get dry, get dirty, or develop a grate they may bind. The problem about taking out the adjustment screw is that it is very easily lost. I usually work with these matters while sitting on the floor. Place the tuba on a white sheet which makes it much easier finding dropped parts.
Work on one socket at a time. Loosen the screw in very small increments and test whether the valve action binds. If the action improves you have found at least one of the culprits for the binding. You may go cheap and squeeze some oil into the socket and tighten the screw exactly some much that it doesn’t bind (if it is too loose, you will hear clicking sounds).
You may take out the screw and clean it as well as the socket, but be very careful about not loosing the screw.
I assume you have oiled the rotor bearings, the links between the push rods and the lever arms, and the axis where the paddle bearings sit. If your problems persist, there are other potential culprits to be discussed.
Would the rotors spin after the bottom bearings were mounted?
Yes, Sir!
Does the action improve if the bottom caps are tightened less firmly?
Slightly
Does the action improve if the screw in the socket is turned 1/8 of a turn to the left?
A bit but it almost seems like the his a hitch in the motion when I do that. I am not sure if I possibly have turned the screw too loose?
I don't mind if you reveal anything from the PM. I sent you a message as a PM just because... well... I am not sure why. Haha!
imperialbari wrote:Without revealing too much from the PM:
Would the rotors spin after the bottom bearings were mounted?
Does the action improve if the bottom caps are tightened less firmly?
Does the action improve if the screw in the socket is turned 1/8 of a turn to the left?
