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Martin Wilk, in Southern Indiana.

Building a new complete piston with casing, knuckles, and all may not be the cheapest source. Old pistons of the right bore may be cheaper even if they need a rebuild. And the Art Hovey approach of adding a rotor as a 4th valve may also be relevant in some cases.

Klaus

Found Art Hovey’s page on this topic:

http://www.galvanizedjazz.com/tuba/frugalhorn.html

Klaus

Why? The only reason I ask is because this process is EXPENSIVE.

Just saying...

KiltieTuba wrote:I might want to add a reproduction of a large valve for a sousaphone, so I'd much prefer a custom new valve to keep with originality and look. I'll have to talk with Martin about this. Thanks

If you add to, let's say, a Jumbo Sousa, you are going to have to remove the cluster and send it to the repair person adding the valve. Then they are going to have to not only fabricate the valve and casing, but also the tubing and figure out a way to route it.

Another issue to think about with Jumbos is the weight. Adding a 4th valve will significantly increase the load you are carrying.

Again, this is a super cool idea, just very expensive.

KiltieTuba wrote:Anyone know someone that can fabricate a piston valve (and casing)?

Nate Grifith made a piston for me a while back. Did a good job. Send me a private email and I'll respond with his email address.

KiltieTuba wrote:
If I'll be keeping it for 30 years or so and using it often, I think it would be worthwhile!

Ian -

I think we both share a passion for Sousaphones (as strange as that might be...). I think you should go for it. I was never trying to push you off of the idea, I just get personally concerned with cost. Just my own personal hang up. This is a totally worth while idea.

I think that if you are going to have a piston built just for this instrument, then you should have the other pistons rebuilt so you can have the tightest possible tolerance. You might as well do this because of the extensive work involved in adding another valve to your section.

I meant no offense Ian.

Adams in Holland. They are one of the primary piston suppliers in Europe

38K? Why do you need a 4th valve? Instead:
1) Get a PT82 mouthpiece that really fits a 38K for even tone and intonation all the way down to the basement;
2) Have the upper loop of the 1st valve circuit converted to a usable slide for the left hand so you can "ride throttle" as necessary, especially 1+3.
3) Most of these horns had the 3rd circuit built long so that you can set 2+3 in tune or slightly flat and 1+3 is not a big deal, and 1+2+3, especially with the 1st valve circuit converted, is actually usable, with no stuffiness.
4) "false pedal" Eb with the PT82 is very, very smooth indeed, and from a distance with care nobody can tell it's not a 1+4. And even then, you would still need to convert the 1st valve circuit so you could pull 1 enough so that 1+4 is a true in-tune low Eb, because 1+2+4 will go flat.
5) likewise, it's the only souzy I know about that with care a player can go all the way down to true pedal BBBb and it is just that: a true, smooth pedal BBBb, fingered Eb-open; D-2; Db-1; C-12; Bnat 23; pedal BBBb: open.

I may be completely off the wall with this post, but it appears you're trying to do something with a 38K. Please don't. These are fantastic instruments in their own right and don't need a 4th valve. Spend a C-bill on a PT82 instead, or get a real 40K instead.