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Hello All.

I have news and questions.
Arrived yesterday here in Brazil the York&Sons Tuba by BaltimoreBrass.
The sound is really incredible, very large and with excellent projection.
All notes with focused and tune, and sometimes I open or close the slide
of 1º piston. There are some things in it that got me curious. For example: slides 1, piston and adjustment have been cut, that means been decreased. I did not understand why the serial number because it is the year 1926 and this time the pitch was modern.
Ledpipe was adapted in a bigger hole to put a larger mouthpiece, but the rest of the body ledpipe not been modified. Well as everyone said the Bb and A notes are terrible!
I'm thinking ahead to buy a set of larger valves and replace of my Tuba York. Who can help me I appreciate it.
Pictures soon.

I am not aware how many valves your tuba has. The old American 3 valve tubas had all slide loops made slightly too long to diminish the sharpness of especially combinations 1+3 and 1+2+3.

With 3 valve Eb instruments the F in the staff will tend quite flat. Not all modern players accept the alternative fingering of 1+3. That may be the reason for the shortening of the 1st valve loop on your tuba.

Klaus

Interesting maybe that's the reason for the shortening of the 1st slide piston. My Tuba has 3 valve!!!

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/fbx/? ... 9868&saved" target="_blank
Pictures.....

dantetuba wrote:http://www.facebook.com/media/set/fbx/? ... 9868&saved" target="_blank
Pictures.....

Link doesn’t work. Maybe because your FB set-up restricts viewing to your FB-friends. Hard to find if ones doesn’t even know your name. If you mail me via the button to the right we may exchange addresses so that I can help you uploading the photos here.

Klaus

I wish someone would explain what was done or changed in my Tuba York.
Because I realized some cuts and changes but can not understand why.
Thanks

Nothing specific can be said without at least visual inspection of adequate photos. Ideally one should try your tuba with ones own mouthpiece and a tuner. At least the latter isn’t going to happen for me.

Your tuba could have been built to old low pitch of A=435Hz. Along with a change of the longish valve loops that may explain the cuts.

Klaus

Actually may have been that, but the serial number is dated 1926 and this time, I believe, already manufactured with the modern pitch. That's weird! Or even in 1926 they made the old pitch?
Thanks.

I guess others may also have problems accessing the photos. Dante kindly sent me the high resolution photos, which now are in my gallery, but not yet in the index. The photos call for comments from TubeNetters with qualities different from mine, so I have shrunk the photos to be uploaded here. My intend was a width of 800 pixels. Lets see whether I succeeded:

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Last 3:

Thanks Klaus.

Does it have a "flat 5th partial" that is common with many other tubas? If so, that could explain the shortening of the 1st valve circuit for the open 4th space G to get in tune.

Of course, most older Eb tubas had originally a small shank receiver, more like the Wick "no-letter" mouthpiece series for the .490 older British receiver. So the fact that the receiver was changed to a "standard" .520 receiver is not a big deal.

iiipopes wrote:Does it have a "flat 5th partial" that is common with many other tubas? If so, that could explain the shortening of the 1st valve circuit for the open 4th space G to get in tune.

My strongest hallucinogens are coffee and yoghurt so my imagination fails sorely when it comes to the understanding how the shortening of a valve loop will sharpen an open note.

Klaus

For what it's worth, my Pan American Eb Giant Bass, from around that time, plays just barely flat with the slides in all the way. Could be due to leaks, but there are persistent rumors that "Low Pitch" was in some cases lower than A=440, though not always.

Hi There,

Hello I need an opinion.
I intend to make some changes, but need a help for it, especially about what measure to bore use. Well this Tuba is originally a measure of 0.656 ", I was thinking and put a 4th valve with a larger measure, type 0.689. "For I know the Tubas Kanstul use this measure". Or is it better to change the whole set of valves by a higher measure for example 0.689 "or 0.710", but do not know if it will work, since the body of Tuba York is great.
What would be the best option?

Thanks

I can't speak to most of your questions, but I think I know why the receiver was changed. I had one of these, but with top-action valves--same engraving. The mpc receiver was a very odd, small size. I had trouble finding a mpc that fit, until I found an original York. On yours it was probably replaced with something that'd take a modern tuba mpc.

Mine had a beautiful sound and terrible intonation.