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Well I've been wanting to get another tuba after not having one for a few years.

There's a fella locally who has this old silver York & Sons Eb tuba, 15" bell.

It has some minor dents but its pretty solid, the valves are good (3 of them), and someone added some tuning slide material at some point too....it seems to play in tune at 440 but I haven't been able to spend much time with it because I haven't bought it yet.

He wants $200, no case, but he'll throw in a mouthpiece.

What I'm wondering is if this is a decent price, if I decided down the road to get something else can I get my money back out of this one? I'm just not sure at this point if I want a tuba or sousaphone (what I'm used to). But I think the York tubas are solid, right?

thanks for any help!

mark in Philly

A small 3 valve Eb isn't exactly an ideal tuba for most things...

...but $200 for a tuba that *plays* is totally a good deal, and I don't think you'd get anything else playable for $200.

I say you should get it, try it, and see what you think!

Evaluating an instrument with no visual and no audible would amount to playing hazard without the right to see ones own cards. Price levels differ a bit between our two countries. From there my comments will be very general.

If you want to get yourself on shape as a player after a hiatus of whatever length, then any playable tuba is better than no tuba. Here sousaphones are included in the category of tuba.

If you want to join any sort of ensemble the demands on the instrument are higher. It shall have very reasonable pitch and be reasonably in tune with itself. You only can establish whether a given tuba meets these demands by a thorough test which includes an electronic tuner for reference. If you are in no good playing shape yourself, the test has to be done by a competent player.

If you are planning on being the only tuba in a given ensemble, a 3 valve Eb tuba hardly will allow you to be versatile enough in range and especially there will be problems with intonation in the low range.

That said, the price is not very high, so if this tuba speaks to you, when you do a thorough play test, then it easily could be worth its price as a practice and back-up instrument. If the body and bell have the right potential, it even may be worth investing in a better valve block.

Klaus

If it plays in tune with itself and the valves are in good shape, I'd say go for it. If you end up wanting something better in the future, it will not have depriciated any, so you are not out any money if you sell it.

I just bought a similar horn and I think it is great.

For $200, you should get it if it plays at all. You should be able to easily double your money (or more) when you sell it.

If this is like my 1918, the loop at the tuning slide is a 1910 York patented High/Low Pitch change, and came with the horn.

Unless the receiver has been changed, it probably takes a small(er) Eb mouthpiece, and not a standard modern US shank.

These smaller horns are about the Eb equivalent to a Miraphone 184; they were intended to be used both in marching and sit-down concerts, and are killer quintet instruments. The intonation on mine is as good as my 184, as well.

I would be concerned about smashed valve and tuning slides, as well as loose solder joints around the valve knuckles and good seals at the spit valves. Make sure that all of the tuning slides move, or be prepared to pay to have that work done.

The mouthpiece receiver is probably the same as the receiver for a bass trombone mouthpiece, but make sure you get a tuba mouthpiece. Either the original mouthpiece or a Denis Wick small shank tuba mouthpiece will work.

This small-bell horn is not the more famous "York Monster," (which has about a 20-inch bell), but the bell material and design have some sought-after sound qualities.

For this price, it is hard to pass up the horn. If it is working order, you will have fun with it. The Denis Wick #3 is probably the first mouth piece to try. (Notice no L after the 3). If it is bad shape, a cleaning a valve adjustment will run a couple of hundred. A valve job about $500. Any solder repairs are by the hour and can get pricy. If you are not prepared for these costs, your better off with a different horn (which you will pay more for).

Thanks for all the replies!

I actually forgot to mention something: the spit valve is missing. The nipple is there but at this point its sealed with tape. Is this gonna be a deal breaker? I know in my Ferrees catalog (I repair clarinets) they have "universal water key" assemblies for pretty cheap, is this gonna be the thing? Help me out here, I don't usually repair brass!

mark

As you hint, the water key is comparatively small problem. It should not break the deal.

Klaus