TubeNet

Hi folks-

I have just had a really nice modification done to my 36K which fully addresses its common intonation issues.
I didn't invent this concept - I have heard others talk about it on this forum.
I figured y'all might appreciate a picture. Jim Becker (Osmun Brass, Boston area) did a stellar job with this work, as usual - many thanks Jim!

Jim Gray

Considering having this done, too, after July 4th.
Did he vent the valve, too?

Very cool!

Great questions, Bloke-

My design goal was to correct the C in the staff and the lower C and B.
It would be sweet to have a low Eb to belt out, but that was lower in priority.

Jim did shorten the lower loop and brought in the upper loop some as well.
My target was to remove about 4 inches (2 on each side of the slide) to get a really solid middle C.
I wanted to leave the slide as long as possible to correct for the lower C and B (which required almost 2 inches in the opposite direction).

So - the slide is 4 inches total, and it seems to work pretty well.
Certainly an immense improvement!

I did the same thing to my helicon, A conn make from the late 20's but has the same issues that most of the sousaphones have with intonation. I had the loop shortened only 1.5 inches, (3 inches total, being that the 1.5 involves two tubes ) and probably leave it set at 3/4 inches shorter than stock would allow most of the time. I don't like pulling the slide constantly, so I usually just leave it set at the compromise position and lip up for the C and B and lip down for Ab's and Eb's. I will pull or push for whole notes though.

Also there was a need to do a little extra work in turning one tube in the loop around because of a technical situation. The tube that has the thumb ring attached has an inner sleeve that is supposed to make the air flow un-interrupted, so the tube must be turned around in order to allow the slide to be inserted from the top. At least it was this way on my horn.

This may seem like a major intonation issue, but actually most of the German design tubas have this issue plus others it seems. One example Hirsbrunners; Swiss make, have almost exactly the same problems as Conn sousaphones, but at several times the price of course. HB does however acknowledge the problem and has already made the slides proportionally shorter and pullable as needed. Those guys pushin and pullin on those slides sitting in the big name orcestra's don't just do it for showmanship, those horns reallly need the adjustment.

I've also done that to two Conn souzys I've played in the past. I have no idea why Conn, after making basically the same valve block for @125 years, doesn't do that to the 1st valve upper loop also. It's a great mod. Low C's and Low F's really come out much, much better, just like riding throttle on any good tuba.

Another thing to do is go to a hardware store, get 7 feet of 3/16id / 5/16od clear plastic tubing, slit it, and install it on the rim of the souzy bell. All afterring is gone, and the tone is better centered and projects much, much better.

I had that done to my small front valve King Eb. Unfortunately, I had it done by the seller so I didn't try the horn before. 1st valve F with it all the way in is a bit flat. Oh well.

I play a 20K every now and then and have started playing it LEFT handed occasionally so I can use the main slide (moves ok, but could probably be usable quick with cleaning and lubing). Open D's pretty close, 1st valve C is flat, and open Bb is sharp. Bleh.

bloke wrote: everyone around here is buying interplanetary sousaphones. Memphis and the Mid-South is not known as a region of affluence.

You mean the Klingons are selling sousaphones now? I'd hate to see a deal gone bad with those guys.

bloke wrote:More-and-more, I lean towards King sousaphones. Yeah, the sound is bright, but then again it is clear and can be heard over over-the-top drumming. The scale isn't too different from the 2341 tuba (darn good). ...no, I haven't played any King sousaphones made in the past 25 years. All of the ones floating around here are old. If "new", everyone around here is buying interplanetary sousaphones. Memphis and the Mid-South is not known as a region of affluence.

Bloke, your Symphony model mouthpiece should sound great on one and take the edge off the brightness and round it out.

As far as interplanetary souzys, same in this part of the country. Damn shame.

bloke wrote:

iiipopes wrote:I've also done that to two Conn souzys I've played in the past. I have no idea why Conn, after making basically the same valve block for @125 years, doesn't do that to the 1st valve upper loop also. It's a great mod. Low C's and Low F's really come out much, much better, just like riding throttle on any good tuba.

Another thing to do is go to a hardware store, get 7 feet of 3/16id / 5/16od clear plastic tubing, slit it, and install it on the rim of the souzy bell. All afterring is gone, and the tone is better centered and projects much, much better.

Based on the way that I see brand-new $7XXX silver Conn sousaphones being treated, I doubt that their operators would do anything with an upper #1 slide.

Yup. You would imagine that a high priced instrument would inspire some degree of extra care and you would be wrong.

I wish it were true though...