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I've had my Getzen CB50 for a couple months now and i find it to be a wonderful horn. The one problem I've found with it is the 5th valve rotary valve. For some reason the rotary itself was put right in front of the bell. I've been able to oil the valve with some difficulty getting the cap off then back on because of the small space between it and the bell, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if its possible to get the rotary out to clean it and if so how? I've noticed that oiling the valve helps but every time i do it seems not to be as fast moving compared to the first time I oiled it. It really feels like the rotary just needs a good cleaning. I wonder if i just got the whole horn chem cleaned if that would work? Any ideas or comments?

Hi!
Buy a "needle oiler" like one sees a lot of French Horn players using. Don't attempt removal yourself! Not the first time especially! Take your Tuba to a qualified tech who will show you how to service your rotor(s)!

Al

See if applying five drops of rotary oil via a removed slide helps. This is what I always do for rotary valves before every practice and performance. It won't help for the bearings, of course.

I bought my CB 50 brand new fifteen years ago. Removing that valve cap is near impossible if you don't have the right equiptment. I've run into the problem a couple times over the years. My advice is get it chemically cleaned. They should be able to help. Good luck.

phatty77 wrote:Removing that valve cap is near impossible if you don't have the right equiptment.

It's definitely true. I gave my CB50 a bath last week and (not wanting to risk breaking anything) ended up leaving the rotor in. It's easier to get the back plate off for oiling and such when you remove the 5th and 1st (lower) valve tuning slides, but still not simple. I'd say chem clean/take it to a pro or clean around it
Brian-the Getzen (at least Cadie) doesn't have a removable cluster. If it did, I can think of a nice little frankenhorn I'd like to put together

The serviceablility of the 5th rotor on the CB-50 tuba is definately a design flaw.

However, the valve can be removed, cleaned, and reinstalled. If done "just so," there is barely enough room for the valve to drop out and be pulled out on the backside.

I would not recommend that your first time removing a rotary valve be removing a CB-50 5th valve though. If not done exactly right, you can damage the rotor or the bell...worse yet, you could jam the rotor in some kind of cockeyed position. If that happens, you will be unsoldering things to free it up since there just isn't enough clearance to get lots of tools in there or pull it out at an odd angle. DO NOT TRY TO BANG THE VALVE OUT OF THE TOP. IT DOES NOT GO THAT DIRECTION AND YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING TRYING TO FORCE IT.

A good repairman with a steady hand is really who should be doing this. Remember, if you do get it out, you've got to be able to get it back in.

In the adsence of a good repairman, my advice would be for you to leave it in place and clean around it.

Not sure is this is valid in your situation, but when I had a sluggish rotary valve that normal oiling wouldn't correct, I ended up pulling the slide for the valve and pouring a large quantity of very warm water down the opening while working the affected rotary valve. Took 2 different applications of about 2 quarts of water each time, but after that the rotary has been fine...

Thanks for all the advice. I've decided i will get the chem clean but if that doesnt help im not sure about finding a professional who can take the rotar out. There is a place by me but when i was on a school horn last year, i took it in to get the rotars realigned and it came back worse than when i sent it in... If anyone knows someone good and could get my valve out to clean it and also chem clean the horn around the houston, galveston area it would be lots of help. I was quoted $600 to get this horn chem cleaned (not including new felts and corks and anything else they will charge extra for) and that is a whole lot more than i payed before. I'd like to get a good idea about what other people/places would charge me before i take it in.

There was a guy in Spring (I think) by the name of Curt (or Kurt) Wood that has been said to do good work. Other than that, I'd take it to Dallas and have Eric Swanson or Dennis Houghton look at it. Somebody here is bound to have contact/shop info for Mr. Wood.

Getting that rotor out isn't a job for somebody that thinks they can do it...it needs to go to somebody that knows they can do it. I think I would avoid the shop by you based on previous experience and the price quoted for the chem clean this time around. Price should be closer to the $350 mark, in my opinion and based on my experience, and should include replacement/service of felts, bumpers, corks, springs, and valve guides as necessary.

phatty77 wrote:I bought my CB 50 brand new fifteen years ago. Removing that valve cap is near impossible if you don't have the right equiptment. I've run into the problem a couple times over the years. My advice is get it chemically cleaned. They should be able to help. Good luck.

So what exactly is the right equipment for dismantling a CB50 rotor?

cjk wrote:

phatty77 wrote:I bought my CB 50 brand new fifteen years ago. Removing that valve cap is near impossible if you don't have the right equiptment. I've run into the problem a couple times over the years. My advice is get it chemically cleaned. They should be able to help. Good luck.

So what exactly is the right equipment for dismantling a CB50 rotor?

Nothing out of the ordinary...same tools you'd need to remove any rotor from any tuba. My posts had more to do with the fact that it can be removed, and that someone with experience should have a go at it since it is located in an especially bad place for servicablilty. A first timer or overly ambitious new owner can do a lot of damage if they don't know what they're doing or how to do it.

That is all. Best of luck to the owner on servicing this rotor, getting a chem clean, etc.